She took Manhattan by storm
Everyone is talking about Katayone Adeli - New York's answer
to Stella McCartney, says Melanie Rickey
The Daily Telegraph (London)
Wednesday 8 December 1999
REMEMBER the name Katayone Adeli, because she could soon be making an
impact on your wardrobe. The 33-year-old Iran-born, California-raised designer
opened her first store only in September, yet already she is being dubbed
the American Stella McCartney - and, along with Gucci and Chloe (the label
Stella designs), has been asked to dress Cameron Diaz, Lucy Liu and Drew
Barrymore - the stars of the forthcoming movie Charlie's Angels. (Related photo here)
The elusive Adeli rarely givesinterviews and refuses to hold fashionshows
or advertise her clothes. "I'm notthinking about trying to make anamazing
fashion show," she says. "I wantto make people look amazing."
Instead, it's left to her customers, whomshe describes as her biggest
inspiration,to get the word out - and this isn'tdifficult when movie stars
such asGwyneth Paltrow can be found tellingAmerican Vogue that she tries
to get"every pair of pants that Katayone Adelimakes". Adeli doesn't
need an expensivead campaign to hype her designs; thehype comes to her.
Adeli describes her customers as "savvy, sexy, confident women
who know how to mix and match, accessorise and make their look believable.
They don't do what they're told - they might wear sneakers and jeans with
a Fendi baguette - but they have flair without trying too hard."
Girls who "know" include Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Shirley
Manson of Garbage, the model-turned-gym owner Michelle Hicks, fashion editors,
art gallery owners and "downtown girls and savvy uptowners".
Just about anyone who is interested in looking fabulously in-tune without
shouting their allegiance to a label will find something in the Katayone
Adeli lines. There are three ranges: mainline, diffusion and resort. Mainline,
which evolves gradually rather than changing every season, features the
special pieces: light, flirty chiffon dresses, slim whip-stitched leather
and suede jackets, trousers, skirts, coats and sexy chiffon blousons and
halters that combine the sensibilities of Studio 54 and early Yves Saint
Laurent with a dash of timeless modernity that is Adeli's own.
The diffusion line is all about basics and includes the "great"
pieces that are a constant of Adeli's collections. The slim-line, drop-waist
jeans, cords and the already-famous black pants, all of which are narrowed
at the knee to elongate the line of the leg, are among the most popular.
There are also cashmere T-shirts, work suits and slim cashmere jumpers.
At Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge, currently Adeli's only UK stockist
(there will be more in the spring), the resort collection has just arrived.
In it, there are bright stretch knits, white fitted cargo pants, sexy swimwear
and just about everything a girl who "knows" will want to wear
on the beach in St Barts this Christmas. Prices vary from about £100
for a leather coat or £200 for a pair of trousers to £500 for
a dress.
Katayone Adeli, 35 Bond St, Soho, New York 001 212 260 3500; Harvey
Nichols, Knightsbridge, London SW1, 0171-235 5000
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