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Night train to Tabriz

Public Iranian spaces can be intimidating–crowds of dark-skinned, heavily-bearded men and clusters of veiled women all staring, or seeming to stare–intimidating, at least, to a

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We know: he’s a maniac

Last week, Iran's newly elected president Mahmoud Ahmadinejad, while addressing close to four thousand students at a Tehran conference entitled “The World Without Zionism,” called

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