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    Persian Fessenjan at Garson

BY: DAI HUYNH
The Houston Chronicle
September 05, 1999, Sunday

Food carries a deep meaning for Persians because it's reflective of so many things in life, says Yadi Mosadegh, owner of Garson restaurant. Take love and marriage. For thousands of years, Fessenjan, or grilled chicken breast with pomegranate sauce, has graced wedding-banquet tables throughout his homeland of Iran.

Offered daily at Mosadegh's 9-year-old Persian restaurant at 2926 Hillcroft, the popular, classic dish symbolizes not only the love between bride and groom but also the sweet things to come. "When you taste the sauce, it makes you smile, like love, like life," he says. Be advised: The delicately fragrant, sweet-tart pomegranate sauce takes two to three hours to make. "Like most things in life that are worth having, it takes time to develop all those wonderful flavors," Mosadegh says.

Other traditional Persian dishes at Garson include Gheimeh (tomato stew), Koubideh (ground-meat kebab), Zereshkpolo (grilled chicken breast with ballberry rice), Barg (tenderloin kabob), Torshi (chopped aged vegetables), Olovieh (creamy chicken salad) and Tahdig (crispy rice).

Garson is open 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays and 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays. Prices: lunch, $ 6.95-$ 17.95; appetizers, $ 2-$ 6.95; entrees, $ 7.95-$ 27.95; desserts, $ 2.50-$ 4.95. Phone: 713-781-0400. Recipes accompanying this article may be viewed on Houston Chronicle microfilm or in the Houston Chronicle database. Garson's Fessenjan.

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