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Laleh Khalili

Sketches of a war, still

ONE: Forugh* When Forugh married my uncle, nearly forty years ago, he had a thick black “leftist revolutionary” mustache, his eyes twinkled with the mischief

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Laleh Khalili

Baba Joon

It is your chehelom, Baba Joon, forty whole days after your death, and I am still searching for the vocabulary that could explain this physical

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Laleh Khalili

In his memory

Forlorn backgammon in the heat ……..and liverspots have ……..brought you to your knees Outside the border of silence and fear you can now comfortably grow

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You frustrate me

Dear Iranian men in the USA, I've heard and read many bad things said about you by Western-educated Iranian women. They have valid points, however.

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Beleaguered beautiful Beirut

Israel never lets you forget you are in Beirut, “the only Arab capital occupied by Israel.” They “buzz” the city quite frequently. “Buzzing” is a

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And for what?

He says to me from the roof on this sunny crisp day, “there's been a bomb or something at the World Trade Center,” and I

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Loving a farangi

But I forgot that your hands fed the roots, watering the tangled roses, till your fingerprints bloomed full, in a natural peace. Like pets, your

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Tastes of paradise

And there it is: on the table, at the summer's equator, a tomato – an earthen sphere, a fertile and repeated star – reveals its

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Under layers of taarof

Transcendence is the moment when you step inside a space surrounded by those eternal high walls of Iran and suddenly you find a small version

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Taking a bow

Before I begin, I shall say that I am not an Isfahani. I introduce myself as Shirazi, my allegiances are to Shiraz, my fondest memories

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So alike

What I want to write about is quite pedestrian: the universality of humanity as demonstrated by the absurdity and exhilaration of the game of politics.

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Yazd, my love

I have fallen in love. Head-over-heels, utterly, magnificently. With the desert city of Yazd. Shiraz and Isfahan may be the glittering jewels of Iran, drawing

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Chai, shirini & the Internet

I have two favorite cafes in Tehran. They belong to different times, different epochs even. They are in geo-socially distant, absolutely disparate parts of town.

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Modern khaastegaari

After being away from Iran for more than twenty years, I didn't expect to return to the U.S. with a husband. However, everyone seemed to

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Take a break

Kuhsar Restaurant in Darband, in the clean, clear northern suburbs of Tehran at the foot of the magnificent Alborz mountains, has a reservation policy rivaling

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Not their fault

What seems like centuries ago, I wrote an essay on love and loss in which – in a fit of generalizing – I stated that

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Twenty years after

Twenty years ago, I remember we all defied Shah's nightly curfews to climb on top of the roofs and sing revolutionary songs and give revolutionary

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Jonoob-e Shahr

Southern Tehran is humbling. In Tehran, class is defined by latitude and altitude: the further north and the higher up one goes, so one does

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A first concert

A few weeks ago, the sophisticated scene in New York was in an uproar over the conduct of the conductor of the symphony orchestra —

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It’s all a myth

Recently in the course of preparing a proposal for a documentary, I ventured into the local Iranian community in my city and conducted informational interviews.

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We don’t need this

Iran teeters on the edge of war. On Thursday September 10, the country deployed military troops (in addition to the already present Revolutionary Guard divisions)

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