America's split personality
September 11: An Iranian In New York
By Kian Tajbakhsh
November 28, 2001
The Iranian
On Sept 11th, I was staying with my Mother on the Upper West Side in
New York City. My suitcases were packed and I was preparing to have a leisurely
day with my family before departing later that day for a year's leave from
the university where I teach, to work on a book about urban life and transformation
in Iran. At about 9 am I got a call from a friend telling me that one of
the towers of the World Trade Center had been hit by an airplane and to
turn on the TV. I then saw the huge gashes in the side of both buildings
billowing smoke and flames. We talked about what could have happened and
agreed that I should leave even sooner for the airport since security was
sure to be beefed up. My friend, who had lived in Brazil for several years,
said JFK was now sure to resemble Latin American airports bristling with
soldiers carrying guns and questioning everyone. I in turn called my cousin
who lives on Canal St. He said he didn't have a TV and so went up on his
roof with a clear view of Wall St. "The world has changed: things will
be different from now on" he told me from his cell phone as he witnessed
the towers collapse less than a mile away.
For the next four days I did what most New Yorkers were doing: glued
to the TV trying to figure out what was happening, who the hell had done
this and why. Almost all the stations were focusing on the first, showing
the footage of the airplanes crashing into the building over and over and
over again, increasingly turning to the second, with Bin Laden immediately
touted as the mostly likely suspect, and very little if nothing of the third,
the why. There is a news cycle of course, with hard news dominating the
initial coverage as the networks see "how much legs" the story
has. Almost all stations, including the BBC and ITV in the UK went "open-ended"
as they say in the news business, with continuous coverage with no breaks.
I was switching between stations, mostly CNN, BBC World (carried selectively
by a local public station), and Peter Jennings on ABC in the hope of getting
less of what I was expecting to be shoot from the hip commentary. I was
watching the TV with my mother when unbelievably the first tower collapsed.
I recall now one of the commentators saying "oh my god" in shock
and then in what seemed to me in a more matter of fact way, something like
"and there goes the building." I felt a jarring disconnection
between the two registers, the first personal the second more observing.
In the ensuing days, I came to notice this in many people including myself
many times, whereby New Yorkers who weren't involved in the rescue operations,
were either dissociating from the event in one big denial (it's hard to
think they were indifferent although in NY you sometimes have to wonder)
or appearing to be by just getting on with their routine lives, even if
just on the outside.
Most of Tuesday I think I stayed indoors glued to the box but also because
of rising concern that, being a Middle Eastern Man, especially one with
a beard, to go outside would be neither prudent due to possible questioning
by police nor safe. People who had experienced the backlashes after the
hostage crisis in 1980 told me this, so I figured I'd play it safe. Trying
to explain that I was trying to model my facial hair after my dervishy style
Persian music teacher rather than a fanatic hiding out in Afghanistan seemed,
well, best to be avoided. This also caused a fight between my mother and
I. Worried about me, she insisted I cancel my flight to Iran or shave off
my beard. I was torn between my security, my pride and her worries, and
now I can see, my concern about my immediate plans of going to Iran. Calming
her seemed the most important thing; although I didn't tell her but the
day after the attack, I was getting very strange looks from many people
in the street, something that went away when the beard did. Oh well.
I tried reaching many of my friends but the phone lines were unreliable.
Exhausted by watching so much TV and speculating constantly and shadow boxing
with the TV commentators over the quality of the coverage, we went to sleep.
Neither my mum nor I slept well that night.
Wednesday was day 2 and as soon as we got up switched on the TV searching
the stations for news and reasons and motives and names and places and survivors.
The precise chronology is a blur, because of the TV repeats I can't remember
which images I saw when, but we occasionally saw more human dimensions such
as the awful sight of people jumping out of the towers before they collapsed,
hearing about desperate cell phone calls made from the hijacked planes.
As the focus of the entire media turned to an Arab/Muslim connection, with
many stations showing the same ten second clip of several Palestinians apparently
celebrating the news, our own worries (not to mention embarrassment at these
images) grew of a backlash against immigrants. Still it has to be said,
the media were generally very restrained. In fact the city as a whole was
restrained. Mayor Guiliani as many people noticed was terrific in rising
to the occasion and being just right type of leader and manager in the catastrophe.
Around lunchtime I had to go out and to my surprise it looked like a
normal day in the city. The weather was gorgeous, sunny and warm and many
people were walking around shopping and in Central Park the usual crowds
of cyclists and sunbathers and walkers and tourists were there. Well, I
was there too taking in the beauty and amenities of the largest park in
the city and walked down Poet's Walk, one of my favorite areas. I stopped
to read the brief biography of Walter Scott, the Scottish nationalist, by
his statue. I felt some awkwardness at allowing myself such a serene and
recreational experience; on the other hand, I felt that perhaps I might
see a special significance to the man that I might have missed on a more
ordinary day. I read that this writer had transformed the way Scottish
culture was perceived even by the Scots themselves and thought now there's
a constructive way to struggle for a cause! But throughout the park people
sat around, talking, laughing, the roller blade dancers were doing their
pirouettes and jumps and tourists were taking snaps of the magnificently
renovated fountain and lake. Someone told me they went to the Blue Note
and heard terrific jazz on Saturday night. Was the city too restrained?
Was the question I kept asking myself. Were these seemingly normal people
just getting on with life as a way to defy the terrorists? Since I didn't
know what else to expect I could not find a convincing answer.
Thursday was much the same although I was beginning to feel restless
and irritated by all the TV. Some of my friends went off to volunteer in
cooking meals for the rescue workers, I tried to compose a tune appropriate
to the occasion but couldn't concentrate (I'm not really a composer but
I've started to dabble). The news was staggering, revealing the full extent
of the carnage and the extremely large number of people that had been killed.
The previous evening the wind had shifted northward bringing the acrid smell
of the smoke hanging over the site almost four miles away into our apartment;
so strong it was that we had to close all the windows. My mother recalled
same smell during the Second World War in Abadan and someone telling her
gruesomely that it was the smell of burning wood and dead bodies. I thought
to myself that this was probably again the case here in NY. In the evening
I went to Mount Sinai Hospital to see a close friend whose wife had just
given birth to a boy on the day before. Here was a family engaged in life
at its most elemental, while everyone else was preoccupied with death. The
birth had been overdue for more than a week and had to be performed via
Caesarian section. The baby, the essence of life affirmation, I speculated,
had refused to come out on time and be a witness to a life-quenching calamity.
On the bus on the way back, I saw several candle lit vigils being held in
the streets.
At noon a colleague at Columbia called and invited me to a special panel
on the bombings with three specialists on the Middle East. The speakers
were Gary Sick President Carter's National Security Advisor during the hostage
crisis, Richard Bulliet, a history professor and specialist on Iran and
Lisa Anderson, the Dean of Columbia's School of International Affairs. The
room was full. The most striking questions raised by the presentations was
first whether the attacks should be seen as an act of war on the US and
thus the US should respond in that light and second the extent to which
US policy in the Middle East and the Israeli-Palestinian question were relevant
to understanding the overall context of terrorism or not. I was quite surprised
by the degree to which the question of US unconditional support for Israeli
persecution of the Palestinians was completely marginalized from the discussion
of the context of the attacks. To a couple of students who spoke in the
question time the combination of American bellicosity and ignoring the US
role in the Palestinian issue seemed to add up to self-righteousness and
willful ignorance and said so in their questions. Still, the session was
informative and like the general response in the US, restrained, measured
and thoughtful. At the same time, the dirty dealings in the world of oil
interests and the former cold war were not really touched on. If they had
been, it would not have been so easy to paint a good vs. bad picture of
US -- Middle East Relations. Afterward I went to several bookstores to buy
some books on Afghanistan. To my surprise there were very few titles on
the Middle East available compared to other areas of the world. Does that
say something about the level of information about a region in which the
US has been involved militarily for over two decades?
Earlier that day I watched the memorial service for the victims held
in Washington Memorial Cathedral. The Presidents of the USA, Congressmen,
Senators and other influential persons filed into the pews of this imposing
structure. The alter area was full of flags and large crosses. I was interested
to hear what the Christian men of the cloth were going to say. I didn't
really know what to expect but the service turned out to be a very interesting
event, little commented upon in the press as far as I am aware. There were
several clergy men who spoke: the black bishop of the cathedral, a Jewish
rabbi and the head of a National Islamic Association- representing the multi-cultural
religious life of America. The black priest was impressive. Facing some
of the most powerful politicians on earth he told them that any action taken
by the US in response to the attacks should live up to the highest ideals
of this country, the respect for individual liberty and the democratic constitution.
If the reaction of the US violated those moral and ethical standards
for example by the singling out of Americans because they were Muslims --
then the US would be no better than terrorists themselves. This was a powerful
and brave reminder, and it seemed perfectly suited to the occasion and delivered
with just the right measure of authority. I can think of no better role
for the guardians of the moral condition of the souls of the citizens to
play in a democracy. The Rabbi also stressed the need to have tolerance
towards different religions and to distinguish between Muslims and terrorists;
incredibly though he chose a passage from the Bible about the building of
the temple in Jerusalem, something I thought he could have left alone at
this particular moment in history. As I watched the Imam (of Pakistani origin)
walk up the pulpit I sat up straighter. What was he going to say in front
of all these Christian leaders in one of the most important churches of
the US? He began his brief uninteresting talk with the usual invocation
of the name of Allah in Arabic. My only thought: this guy has got guts.
The reverend Billy Graham came next. He said that after all his years of
preaching and contemplation he still did not have an answer to the question
of why a benevolent God would countenance the existence of evil (and pain
and suffering I added under my breath). This I found pretty disappointing,
I would have thought he would have something to say about it.
Still the fact that this service took place, that a Muslim cleric spoke
to the assembled (mostly Christian) dignitaries, and that it didn't seem
too staged or artificial says something very important about the degree
of openness and tolerance of American society. The fact that a powerful
moral message was delivered by a black clergyman was not a surprise to me:
I have always seen black Americans as the standard bearers of the best of
American values. That a Muslim cleric would be asked to address national
leaders at a time like this should be startling for other cultures and nations.
There is of course a kind American open mindedness which Rorty has accused
of being so extensive "that our brains fall out" but the fact
of this inclusiveness can not be simply dismissed as public relations.
In fact, that there is an Abrahamic pact operating is attested to not
only by President Bush's apparent Christian fundamentalist beliefs, but
also by another little commented on story I read in the Guardian newspaper.
Initially, the US response to the attacks was code-named "Operation
Infinite Justice" presumably to capture the long-term nature of the
response. In a letter to the White House, the President of the Islamic Association
of America (I think this is correct) objected to this since he claimed,
infinite justice belonged only to the Almighty. The White House apparently
reacted by refusing responsibility for the such a blunder and blaming it
on an inexperienced staffer in the State Department and swiftly renamed
the operation to Operation Enduring Justice.
Friday again started with switching on the TV. The local stations were
running hard news from "ground zero", that is the (former) WTC
site, seemingly unable to find space for analysis or intelligent commentary.
In fact I was quite shocked at NBC's handling of the issue of determining
the identity of the perpetrators. General Schwartzkopf, the commander of
US forces during the Gulf War and hardly an unreliable observer, was pointing
out that we shouldn't rush to judgment as was done in the Oklahoma City
bombing and blame Arab or Muslim fundamentalists, when Katie Curic (I think
it was her, so much channel surfing is not good for the memory) responded
curtly and sarcastically along the lines of "oh come now General, flight
manuals in Arabic have already been found," and so forth, as if she
was more qualified than a five star general to draw conclusions about a
piece of recently discovered evidence. This was quite typical of the tenor
of the coverage in most stations. Even the BBC was not immune from sensationalism
and hard news obsession: the (now reformed) Robert McNamara when asked what
the US response should be said that in the short term quick action to find
and punish those responsible, and that more importantly the long term question
of the "root causes" should be tackled. He was cut off abruptly
by the interviewer with the rhetorical "you are not really suggesting
that we have time to develop a thoughtful response now" the answer
to which I would have thought was self evident and changed the topic to
the difficulties of the US securing European cooperation. As it is, two
weeks after the bombing (and now almost three months at the time of writing)
no concrete piece of evidence linking Bin Laden with the hijackings has
been announced.
Lincoln Center was to host an Iranian Film festival all week capped by
a conference at Columbia University. No films were shown on Tuesday and
Wednesday and Thursday had only a partial schedule. The conference, something
for which probably a lot of time and effort has been expended, was cancelled
due to the fact that the panelists could not reach NY from Iran or elsewhere.
That Iranian culture was being celebrated at the same time as Iranian politics
had by association come under suspicion reflected one more dimension
of the contradictory presence and role of Iranians and Iran in the West
and in world culture, a reflection no doubt of the contradictions besetting
Iranian society (from where I'm writing these lines). The area around Lincoln
Center seemed busy and, except for the enormous American Flag hanging on
the façade of the Metropolitan Opera, normal for pleasant summer
evening. I tried to sense if my fellow diners, walkers, talkers, were agitated
or different in any away, but it was hard to tell. After dinner I visited
a close friend from Ireland whose brother had been on the Pan Am flight
that had been blown up over Lockerbie, Scotland and had been following the
story keenly -- no doubt, I imagined, with the apprehension of reliving
old pains. In his view the Lockerbie trial in The Hague had been a travesty
and that rather than a clear link to Ghadafi and the Libyans, Iranian groups
were likely to have been involved. Embarrassing of course but I didn't take
it personally. There is simply no reason why I or anyone else should feel
responsible for the action of homegrown terrorists. Speaking of which, another
of the guests that evening who seemed quite well informed, told us that
in Timothy McVeigh's written testimonies he had said that what he really
wanted to do was "hijack a plane and fly it into the WTC" and
that the two surviving students questioned after the Columbine High School
shooting had apparently expressed the precise same sentiment. This was pretty
startling to say the least. If true it would be a startling addition to
the confusion of leads and speculations. My uninformed feeling from the
start was that the WTC massacre was headed by Bin Laden with the support
of the Taliban and Iraq and aided by American neo-Nazis. If there are cells
and networks staying dormant in the US over a long period of time it's plausible
that these types would have bumped into each other at, say, a weapons fair.
That night we went to see an Iranian movie, called Djomah, directed and
written by Yektapanah. Coincidentally, it was about an Afghani young man
working in Iran and struggling with exile, loneliness and prejudice. There
weren't too many people in the theatre other than three Iranians that I
noticed. I wondered what was going on in the other viewer's minds. After
all the discussion about Afghanistan as a desperately poor, strife ridden
hideout for terrorists and Islamic fundamentalists (who had recently dynamited
a thousands year old statue of Buddha because they viewed it is as idol
worship) how were they able to juxtapose this with the simple story of the
longings of a poor milk boy for a home and a wife far from his place of
birth from which he had to escape? (Just as millions at this very moment
are doing, only to find most borders to Iran Tajikistan and Pakistan closed
to them.) My friends said they sensed a deep quiet in the theatre. Was that
so? I don't know. Later on the subway a woman said she felt people were
somber and quieter, more into themselves, reading or just thinking, there
was less chatter. Moreover, how much did they know about Afghanistan? I
recalled wincing, somewhat gleefully I admit, the night before as the BBC
TV interviewer asked a former State Department official, "And will
ordinary Americans tolerate war casualties, people in the Mid West who don't
even know where Afghanistan is?" The American responded with admirable
equanimity to a question that, however true, would never have been put in
that way on US television.
Saturday morning I attended several meetings that were being held in
the city by activist and progressive groups. The first group at the Brecht
Forum was an assembly of leftist groups conducting a teach-in about the
larger political economic context of US policy in the Middle East, an important
dimension of the broader picture of the dynamics of US interests in Afghanistan,
something I was not getting from the mainstream press. (How many people
for example know that George Bush senior is closely involved with the oil
company that is looking to build a pipeline across Afghanistan?) Later,
at the Asian American Legal and Educational Defense Fund, I joined perhaps
a hundred people, mostly of Indian, Pakistani and South East Asian origin,
crammed into a small space to hear about the strategies for combating racist
attacks that had already begun. Apparently, several Sikhs had been targeted
and abused, a puzzle until you realize that in appearance (beards and turbans)
they kinda resemble Osama Bin Laden in the footage shown on TV. One topic
of discussion that drew some debate was the issue of the now ubiquitous
American flag, which some considered too jingoistic and imperialistic, something
that fueled resentment and aggression against immigrants. One person proposed
an alternative flag or banner that would stress equality and universality.
(This didn't seem to get much reaction, probably due to the difficulty of
conceiving such an alternative.) A "white" American pointed out
that being from Texas he was sick of seeing the flag everywhere; but he
pointed out that for immigrants who didn't speak English well, it was the
only sign that could display their "patriotism" and thus ensure
their safety. Most of those at the meeting were young professionals and
students in their twenties and thirties. There was however a group of older
Sikh men in their fifties and sixties dressed in suits each with a bright
American flag sticking deliberately out of their jacket breast pockets.
One of these men related how as a community leader in Queens and a member
of the locally elected school board he had met with local police chiefs
to educate the cops on the beat about who was and wasn't an Arab or Muslim.
I was impressed by the way in which this man, like many other immigrants
had moved into positions of responsibility and how the organization of the
city allowed him, however difficult it might be, to contact his local representatives
and officials. I wondered to myself how many of my neighbors in Tehran knew
where their local police station was, and if they did, how to talk to them
about a local problem. I left these meetings impressed with the ability
and speed with which these groups mobilized to protect and inform citizens
and the aspects of liberal democracies worth defending against the likes
of the Taliban. (The effectiveness of the groups is another matter.)
On Sunday the 16th I went down to Canal Street, the lowest street in
Manhattan that was allowed to pedestrians and non-residents. Police barricades
were trying to keep the lower areas clear of people who apparently were
swarming the site to get a glimpse of the destruction at close range. That
I don't get. Why on earth would one want to go down there, where you'd only
be in the way? But we live in a spectacular world and the TV live coverage
proved that and just feeds a need to see. But from Canal Street less than
a mile from the site the empty place of the tower could be seen, twisted
girders stuck up into the air, a huge cloud of smoke hanging over the site.
But in Canal Street, which is the main street in New York's Chinatown,
business was thriving and the crowds of shoppers and merchants in shops
and stalls didn't really betray the fact that just half a mile south, a
mushroom cloud hung in the air where two of the world's largest buildings
had stood just five days before. The north side of the street was jammed
with people and I was surprised (oh naiveté) to see the merchants
doing a brisk trade in WTC disaster memorabilia: T-shirts, buttons, and
posters, emblazoned with the, former, Wall St. skyline. The sellers of these
items seemed to be all first generation immigrants from China, North and
West Africa, and the Indian sub-continent. My guess is that very few would
have spoken English fluently if at all and I wish I had talked to them about
what was going on in their minds: had their faith in the promise of America
been shaken by this tragic event a stones throw from their shops? Or, terrible
as it was, did they feel they were still better off than those they left
behind in poverty, war and repression? For these recent arrivals their jobs
were their anchor and rudder in America, even if their ships were their
languages, religions and cultures, which New York so famously embraces and
allows. If the WTC represented the American economy to the world, then these
low skilled poor immigrants were intimately tied to that. Perhaps the apparent
insouciance of these petty traders was really the soul of the world trade
center just carrying on. They were, in a sense, another type of world trade
center.
Canal Street itself was jammed with traffic and construction crews laying
new lines or pipes with broken concrete and drills and men in hard hats
in a strange reversed parallel to what was going on a few blocks downtown.
At one of the intersections, a young black female member of the work crew
was directing traffic waving a huge red flag and swaying with the effort.
Then I realized it wasn't the weight of the flag that was moving her, she
was dancing to the music coming from her headphones, turning a normally
dull job into something more tolerable. As I looked at her from the north
side of the street, dwarfed by the remaining buildings of Wall St and that
smoky ever present reminder of Tuesday's events, I couldn't help but think
of other contrasts: on the one hand, a product of that very peculiar, saddening
type of world trade that so marks America's past and present making the
best of a bad job (literally) but affirming life through music and the body;
on the other hand, the absence of the symbol of that and other American
world tradings. (The fact that the young woman was black and the big cloud
white seemed to confirm this impression.)
The south side of the street was, like a broken line on a graph, made
up of the shops and police barricades closing off the streets going south
to the site which had been erected, I was told by a policeman, to prevent
curious people from swamping the area where rescue workers and construction
workers (destruction workers?) were laboring to remove over two million
tons of debris, a job that might take over a year. In a mournful ritual,
the barricades would intermittently be removed to allow a heavy load truck
bring out what was left of the WTC, trucks filled with ash still smoldering
and giving off an awful, acrid smell (the smell of dead bodies again?),
large flat bed trucks carrying enormous steel girders, bent and twisted
like macaroni. I heard that some of the girders weighed over 40,000 pounds
and had to be very carefully and expertly cut away from the pile because
of the fact that, under strain, they were as taught as a spring, and could
snap back with a terrible force. Men from the steel workers union were
volunteering their skills to unbuild what their brothers had proudly built
four decades before.
At the barricades there were little makeshift shrines with candles and
notes and pictures of "missing" people, a description increasingly
euphemistic as the days went by and no survivors where found. There were
also poems, quotes from famous figures such as Gandhi, Nelson Mandela,
and Walt Whitman, and Khalil Gibran. There was a statement written in legalese
on a legal court notice:
Prosecutor: The people of the World
Defendant: Capitalism and Global Inequality
Whereas the people of the world condemn the atrocity committed in NY
against innocent people, they feel it is important to highlight the vast
degrees of inequality suffering and exploitation perpetrated by American
and other capitalist powers to obtain greater wealth and power. And
so on. In other words, NO JUSTICE NO PEACE.
I didn't take an exact count but there couldn't have been more than a
couple of dozen notices. There were many copies of the same sign at each
barricade. The shrines were makeshift, even crude; they did not strike me
as the manifestation of a massive and overwhelming collective grief, they
failed to live up to the occasion. Still, standing in front of them and
staring at the face of a woman or a man that had been lost in the collapse,
reading about how they had called or e-mailed a lover or husband to say
goodbye, I felt the full impact of the calamity in my heart for the first
time. Amidst the crowds of onlookers with their cameras bunched up at the
barricades arguing with police to let them through, the crashes and shouts
of construction crews behind me, the snarling traffic on Canal Street, I
cried, as quietly as I could. I had lunch in a local Chinese restaurant
with my cousin, who lived down here and had watched from his rooftop as
the towers burned, then collapsed. By now I was tiring myself out looking
for the signs of the tragedy in people's faces. But I couldn't help it.
Life goes on yes, but so soon, so quickly?
Is New York just too big, too dynamic, too individualistic to stop doing
what it does even for such a tragedy? What did I expect? My friend asked
me. I don't know. But I expected something different, perhaps less normal.
Perhaps maybe people were all mixed up inside. I for example tried to do
my walking exercises, even practice my singing lessons, but couldn't concentrate.
In fact I couldn't concentrate enough to do even some necessary chores before
I left. Were other people like that? It was hard to tell.
I arrived at JFK on Sunday night four hours before my flight departure.
The terminal was relatively quiet. But the security at the main doors didn't
seem to be very tight: despite the signs permitting only ticketed passengers
to enter, many others were walking in and out, past the tired and inexperienced
guards. I asked one of the airline employees what he thought of the new
security. He rolled his eyes, and looked over at a couple of guards sitting
next to an aging x-ray machine, chatting to themselves and apparently not
paying much attention. He said the airlines were not willing to spend more
money; if you pay Macdonald's wages you get that level of competence. This
was an ironic comment, given the circumstances, on the American strategy
of economic globalization: the WTC, symbol of US economic might and globalization,
was also connected with what economists call the "low road" to
economic growth adopted by the US, i.e. through low wages, no/low benefits
and very little training at the lower end of the labor market, and thus
very little commitment. These security guards were very much an expression
of that, now with chilling consequences -- economic blowback perhaps.
On the flight to Tehran via Amsterdam I read the British Guardian newspaper.
What a delight, all things considered! I hadn't devoured journalism like
that in a long time. Practically the entire issue was devoted to reports,
essays, comments, and letters about the tragedy. It had breadth and depth,
reflecting a much wider spectrum of opinion than the New York Times or US
coverage in general, which it has been said covers the entire range of political
opinion from A to B. Missing was the parochialism of the US coverage where
one rarely got a story from how things looked from Pakistan, from Afghanistan,
from India, from the Arab countries. Here another paradox about American
culture and globalization and world trade and exchange: so much diversity,
so little breadth. (This of course is not a novel observation: Toqueville
already pointed out the paradox of America being at the same time both the
freest nation yet having the most conformist culture.) I read that Tiger
Woods and several others had refused to travel to Europe for an important
international golf tournament, mainly because, they felt, it was wrong and
trivial to be putting while their countrymen were being put in body bags.
I did not come across too many examples of this type of response in New
York. On the subway I saw a young busker set up his electric piano and of
all things, play a jazz improvisation on the theme from the Flintstones
(complete with drunk looker-on yowling Yaba-daba-doo). I recall a scene
in a movie in which Steve Martin and John Candy, sharing a long bus journey,
try initiating songs that everyone could sing. Only Candy singing the Flintstones
song got everyone singing, the point being presumably that a TV cartoon
was about the most common element in America's disjointed and patchy national
culture. If so, then the young man was playing an American anthem of sorts,
perhaps an unexpected and oblique, yet fitting celebration of America.
These were the thoughts going through my mind as we touched down in Tehran
and our Dutch Captain announced, "I hope you have all had a good flight,
under the circumstances."
It is now nearly November, and in Tehran in the two months since Sept
11th, I have been less connected to the frenzied media news coverage, even
of the Iranian variety due to the fact that until recently I did not own
a television set. I read the Guardian Weekly several days late (bulk mailed
to Tehran), get flashes of breaking news on the internet, and read analysis
and some news in specialist e-mail listservs. This is probably more than
the average educated Iranian who get their coverage from local sources or
from satellite TV of the CNN variety. The response of most people in Iran
is something familiar by now to analysts of the reactions in the middle
east more generally: condemnation of the attacks, deep sadness at the personal
tragedies, but a feeling of "what goes around comes around" to
use the Indian writer Arundhati Roy's phrase (did she know she was echoing
Malcolm X's' "chicken's coming home to roost" comment?). By now
the events in New York seem only a distant cause of the bombings in Afghanistan.
As the cause-effect logic looses clarity, America is being tested. To which
set of ideals will it live up to? Military Aggression? International Arrogance
and hypocrisy? Or balancing self-defense with consideration of human rights?
Forging a vision for an equitable world? A Pax-Americana with all its international
responsibilities for the US? Unfortunately it's not clear at this point
which it will be. There are many signs of mistakes of the past foreign being
repeated. A recent article in the Guardian reported that the profit motive
is alive and well in post sept 11 US. So much so that the White House opposes
plans to waive the patent rights for the anthrax antidote and thus open
the way for cheaper alternatives something other countries such as
Canada have already done -- since it would harm business interests. The
fact that it would calm the near panic of the population not to mention
provide affordable cures in the event of a biological attack seems trivial
in the face of America's main business. As Bill Moyers, that rare American
intellectual, put it "They (the corporations) are counting on your
patriotism to distract you from their plunder. They're counting on you to
stand at attention with your hand over your heart, pledging allegiance to
the flag, while they pick your pocket." Ralph Nader has had to point
out that the US Congress is willing to bail out multi-national corporations
such as airlines and insurance companies, but has resisted help to the millions
of the airline workers who lost their jobs as "un-American."
That this is how US citizens are being treated bodes not well for the
rest of the world. This is not the only America but it is the dominant America.
The other America that lives up to its own highest ideals seems more and
more elusive, both to the critics of globalized capitalism in the West and
the opponents of US dominance in the Third World. For me, there is an embarrassing
tension between America's righteous need to respond to a violation of its
territory and its poor record of hypocrisy and greed and violence in the
developing world. In central Tehran there is a big painted poster showing
a Palestinian fighter, under which are the lines: "America does not
have the legitimacy to fight terrorism." These surprisingly sober lines
reflect perhaps the underlying sentiment in this part of the world and one
wishes that the US had built a stronger reputation for itself for a time
like this. But this failure of the US to live up to its highest ideals in
the international sphere lofty ideals that many people around the
world admire has also been an enduring characteristic of the American
domestic experience as well. In this regard, I have thought several times
about writing to my Congressman proposing to adopt Langston Hugh's 1937
poem as the American national anthem, which includes the lines:
Let America be America again.
Let it be the dream it used to be.
Let America be the dream the dreamers dreamed--
Let it be that great strong land of love
Where never kings connive nor tyrants scheme
That any man be crushed by one above.
But Hughes also laments:
O, let America be America again--
The land that never has been yet--
And yet must be
I am the poor white, fooled and pushed apart,
I am the Negro bearing slavery's scars.
I am the red man driven from the land,
I am the immigrant clutching the hope I seek--
And finding only the same old stupid plan
Of dog eat dog, of mighty crush the weak.
But I don't have much hope that my suggestion would be well received.
But Hughes tells us to hope. So perhaps one day it will. Living in the US,
the other America, Hughes' hope, was an ever present potential, animating
a life of critical inquiry and social activism. Living now far away in Tehran
this social hope seems less and less plausible and real, and I feel less
and less inclined to maintain the faint hope of a maturing and deepening
of that culture. The "real" America asserts itself to the international
community in a one-dimensional and brutal way. America still needs to be
America again, especially to millions of its citizens. But it also needs
to become something new to the world outside its borders. Here's to that
hope.
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