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Hitching a ride in the notorious tuk-tuk's in northern Thailand.
After a few days I learned the in's and out's of tuk-tuk riding but nothing
gave me freedom like having my own motorbike.
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A small piece of the world (2)
Nine-month adventure through 11 countries in three continents
Part
(1)
By Neema Moraveji
January 23, 2002
The Iranian
Week 2: Thailand
This week's story brings our journey to the beautiful lands of Siam,
known now as Thailand. I know what you're thinking, wait, he was in Kenya
and all of a sudden he jumps to Thailand? Well, after my trip to Kenya,
I returned to Madrid for another month. However, when I returned, I found
that I could no longer be content with backpacking in Europe. I had to venture
further outside of my safety zone.
I decided to return to Africa. However, visa headaches forced me to go
for my second option: East Asia. I bought a one-way ticket to Thailand and
packed my bag, unsure of what to expect, nervous, and thrilled. I arrived
in Bangkok on January 1, 2001.
I spent six weeks in Thailand. Three weeks in the hilly north, and another
three in the tropical south. The first thing I did when I arrived in the
train was get on a train north outside of the city: I wanted to get off
the beaten path. For a few weeks I visited Buddhist Wats, went jungle trekking
in the Thai-Burmese jungle, got robbed while sleeping on a train (nothing
serious), and visited small towns in the central plains.
In the north, I stayed for a week in Thailand's second largest city,
Chiang Mai (which is still very small). I rented a motorbike and met local
Thais my own age. I hung out with my new friends and went to discos with
them. After practicing my Thai with an old woman in Chiang Mai, she gave
me my Thai nickname (which all Thais have): Gao. It means "glass".
Don't ask, I don't even know.
Chiang Mai is also where I met Remy, Stephan, and Christoph: the three
Parisian hippies. The day after we met, the four of us left Chiang Mai to
tour the north by motorbike. Riding for hours on jungle paths, we would
come upon secluded villages where children ran naked and the people seemed
to speak by smiling. Eventually, I decided to continue my adventure alone
so I returned the motorbike and headed to the islands of the south.
Struck with the differences between north and south, I was frustrated
when people in the south could not understand my northern dialect. The south
was more exposed to western culture, and it was evident. I avoided those
cities and resorts that were more modern (Phuket, Pattaya, Ko Samui, etc.)
because I sought adventure, not the comforts of home.
I took a one-week scuba diving expedition to the infamous Ko Similan
islands, fifty miles off of the coast. I spent some sweaty nights in the
rain forest of Khao Sok, attending a local cock fight and babysitting some
Thai eight-year-olds for the family who ran the guesthouse. My last week
was spent making the pilgrimage to the island of Ko Phan Ngan, where backpackers
from all over the world meet on the night of the full moon, every month,
to celebrate on the beach.
Taking a crowded, smoke-filled overnight tugboat to the island, Ko Phan
Ngan was where I met some incredible characters and spent more than one
night dancing until dawn on the beach with twenty-somethings from every
corner of the globe. I took a bungalow on a remote beach, read books and
explored the savage island.
It was on the night of the full moon when I met Akayate and Chance and
learned their story of traveling the globe beach-by-beach, fire-twirling
and teaching anybody who wanted to learn. I met other people with their
own incredible stories, it was a great time.
From Thailand I took a short plane ride to Kolkata (Calcutta), India,
sitting next to a Thai monk. I had to fly to India because of the visa restrictions
of Myanmar (Burma), in between Thailand and India.
Next week I will display photographs and stories about India. Accompany
me as I bathe in India's holiest river, teach English to Tibetan monks,
attend the teachings of the Dalai Lama, study yoga, and more... next week.
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