Norooz in Arabestan

Balatarin
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Norooz in Arabestan
by Cost-of-Progress
05-Apr-2011
 

                

I knew that I would be away for Norooz this year, but it was ironic and kind of unsettling to spend it in a place whose ideology and indirect “representatives” are working hard to negate everything Parsi about my motherland.

It is interesting to see people’s reaction when they learn you’re going there…”Why?” they ask with a concerned face. “Eh, because I need to go…... because of work….?”
Duh!

Anyway, the following are my observations and thoughts related to this experience. It is not meant, nor is it written, to offend anyone specially those who feel close allegiances to the inventors of their religion. Although I will be going back and forth for a while, I think that the first trip will naturally be the one that would leave a lasting impression, or may be not!  I should add that Iranian.com is blocked there. Gee, I wonder why.

As an Iranian-born person, I could not help comparing everything I saw and experienced in Saudi to Iran and how we believe we are different than the Arabs. In a lot of cases we are and in a lot of cases we are not. It depends on your particular point of view, your values and what you hold dear. I saw that even though Arabestan is where Islam started, in some ways, it is less zealous in pushing its Islamic agenda than some other places we know. Surprised?  So was I, but remember I said in “some” ways. The oppression of females and their marginalization in the society is as rampant as it has ever been. However, I also saw the vision that these people have for their land and how they see themselves in the future. While our so called leaders work to isolate themselves from the rest of the world and only mingle with their Third World equals, the Saudis have embraced the wind of change and progress and have aligned themselves to become a diversified entity in a region where oil is the king. They seem to have understood that the days of every king will come to an end, and hence the need not to put all your [oily] eggs in one basket!

I also saw that both Arab and Ajam (reference to Persians) people and countries are equally clueless when it comes to understanding some of the basics that make a society civil: from how to drive to how to treat garbage and pollution.

Although it is a known fact that Iranians are not favored or liked there (just ask any religious pilgrim), I did not encounter obvious resistance to my being a Persian nor did I experience any open hostility or unkind treatment. Perhaps because all those with whom I worked were professionals and perhaps did not want to alienate the one guy who has come to assist them. One of the guys I worked with even mentioned the famous Persian epic love story of Shirin-Farhad and that he had enjoyed reading it as a kid. I smiled and noted that I too had read that story as a youngster and enjoyed it very much. I also did not engage in pointed conversations which would have revealed my inner most thoughts about the subject! So, that probably helped too.

One thing did confuse me I must confess and it was the contradictions. While these observations may seem petty and inconclusive, I believe they bear a deeper message. Here is a country based on the laws of Islam and governed as such, yet the variety of Western shows and movies available on satellite TV makes you forget you’re in a country where women are expected to cloak themselves from head to toe outside the house. A country that admits it is “not yet ready” for women suffrage. A country – or city I should say to be fair - where you do not see women on the streets until after dark, even in grocery stores. A place where the only two beggars I saw were women. I also saw few women without the head covering: the non-Muslims – Yes, in Saudi Arabia!  How many non-Muslims can do this in our non-Arab Iran? So, I’m thinking is this the beginning of what they might be trying to do to go beyond superficial indicators of purity and chastity hoping to improve their standing in civil human societies? Can we draw any conclusions between how the Saudis view these choices and the policies of the Islamic regime in Iran? What could that conclusion be, I wonder? It is true that the Saudis have a long long way to go, but what can we say about Iran’s resume with respect to these matters? Our women used to be the most liberated and modern-thinking women in the region. However while at least on the surface, places like Saudi appear to be working to understand how they can reconcile women’s right with Islamic teachings, the Iranian government has worked hard to eliminate the advantage and forward thinking nature of Iranian women in the last 30 plus years.  Yes Iranian women are much farther in claiming their rights and exercising them than their Saudi counterparts, but that is not because of the government, it is in spite of it.

Why is this confusing? Well, keeping the points noted above in mind, I was floored by the institutionalized nature of prayers! Yes, 5 times a day the country literally shuts down for prayers, all shops close and no commerce takes place until after the prayers where loudspeakers blast out the call for prayer from ever corner of the city. If you’re in a shop, or a restaurant, then you’re out of luck as you get locked in till after the prayers! I understand that it may be what it takes to “motivate” people and to protect the religion and its doctrine, but man, you’d better schedule your life around prayer times, or you’re screwed. I have always wondered why this god needs so much praying and this has given me new things to think about and challenge from time to time.

On the way to the airport I was thinking about all this; primarily the comparison between Arabestan and Iran. I could not help it. I thought about the monetary concessions that the Saudi government is granting the people in light of recent unrests in the region to help calm people down. I thought about the need for constant checkpoints and guards armed with assault weapons on the way to work, hotel and randomly on the road. I thought about what would happen in the region, and the world, if the Wahabis gave way to another regime there. What would that regime be like and what it would mean for Iran?

As the plane took off and climbed high above the city, I thought that while my birthplace was only a three- hour flight away, I’d have to fly over 14 hours to get to my adopted home.


CoP

 


 

Balatarin
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more from Cost-of-Progress
 
Mash Ghasem

...

by Mash Ghasem on Thu Apr 07, 2011 12:26 AM PDT


  •  
Anahid Hojjati

Speaking of kardasian

by Anahid Hojjati on Wed Apr 06, 2011 12:53 PM PDT

I was surprised to see that Balatarin web site had pictures or something about Kim Kardasian.


  •  
Esfand Aashena

Cardasians or Kardasians?!

by Esfand Aashena on Wed Apr 06, 2011 12:28 PM PDT

Everything is sacred


  •  
Cost-of-Progress

Visa required

by Cost-of-Progress on Wed Apr 06, 2011 12:21 PM PDT

A visa is required for all souls as far as I know to enter Da Kingdom! And yes, they want to know your religion. Mine is actually Cardasian (close relation to Ramillions) - he he he.

You can identify yourself as muslim if you want - especially if that's how you feel deep inside which appears to be the case. It is how we were raised or how we evolved as adults that determines that. However, as noted before by me, most of us Iranians are muslim by descent or for convenient as applicable to those who eat their bread according to the current rates!

As long as we identify with Islam, we will be andar khame yek koche - same soup (aash) and same container (kaase'). 

____________

IRAN FIRST

____________


  •  
Esfand Aashena

کاپ جان خیلی‌ نفس میگیری از آدم!

Esfand Aashena
Wed Apr 06, 2011 12:04 PM PDT

When you said "visa" I thought you meant the visa they gave you when you came to America at age 14 and I didn't understand it anyway so I just didn's say anything until you now mentioned it.  I thought KSA and USA have visa exchange program where you don't need to get visa with a US passport.  Probably for KSA citizens but not US citizens.

So what did you put as your religion in your visa application?  Christian?  Atheist?  Or you just left if blank?  If blank, this is the place to NOT give out too much information?!

I'll put Islam on my application, not because I believe in it but because it is not a big deal anyway.  It says so in my shenasnameh (birth certificate), I think.  Unless there is reason to NOT claim Islam like if drinking beer will be prohibited or something! 

Everything is sacred


  •  
Cost-of-Progress

The Holy Cat

by Cost-of-Progress on Wed Apr 06, 2011 11:49 AM PDT

You are a hard person to talk to.

The KSA asks your religion on the visa application. If you say you're a muslim, I imagine you have carte blanche to all the pure cities you can shake a stick at. If you are not, then your visa say so. Your papers are checked prior to entering the city and you are turned away if you do not meet the criteria for islamic purity.

The question is why would anyone claim to be a muslim when they are not.

You either misunderstood me or did not read my post. I wanted to go to Medina as a tourist JUST LIKE YOU HAD NOTED BEFORE. now you say I am the cat pretending to be holy?

What gives man?

____________

IRAN FIRST

____________


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Esfand Aashena

گربه شد عابد و زاهد و مسلمنا!

Esfand Aashena
Wed Apr 06, 2011 11:24 AM PDT

COP jaan how come when it comes to "believing" you are a non-believer but when it comes to slipping a little white lie you're all of a sudden a believer?!

You can't say you're a believer or a born again Muslim just to go and see couple of places?!  Now that you mention it can you explain if there are actually any physical evidence required?  If I or someone else (a Muslim or Muslim looking :-) ends up in KSA for whatever reason we can't just go and visit by throwing a sheet over us? 

Is there a place where people go and change their clothes to the uniforms?  do they have lockers?  showers, the whole nine yard?!  Seriously as a non religious Muslim I just want to know how I'd fit in! 

Everything is sacred


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Cost-of-Progress

Esfand, its the descent thing, isn't it?

by Cost-of-Progress on Wed Apr 06, 2011 11:16 AM PDT

Reconsidering the statement, the self-proclaimation does not even apply - it's been like that for me from the begining bro' - from the get go.

Too much information is a good thing -  most of the time. BTW, it wasn't that I "decide" so much, it is only the paak, the pure, the believer in the power of Allah who is admitted - I do not qualify brother, I do not.

I did note that I wanted to go to Medina and even noted to one of my colleauges the intent. The question asked was: "you are muslim, no? 'cause that's what it takes...." - That kinda ended the conversation. 

I find it interesting that you do not dwell too much on the "muslim-only" aspect of this divinity.

But that's OK, I am an easy going guy, I still like some of your one-liners.

____________

IRAN FIRST

____________


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Mash Ghasem

...

by Mash Ghasem on Wed Apr 06, 2011 10:49 AM PDT

Don't get caught up in theory, recall Gothe's advice: " Theory is gray my friend, only the tree of life is Green."

And do eradicate any and all forms of Islamic, religious, doctinaire thinking, cheero


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Esfand Aashena

COP jaan you gave us too much detail!

by Esfand Aashena on Wed Apr 06, 2011 10:34 AM PDT

You could've said you just don't feel like going to the Haj stuff or don't believe in this stuff, instead you said as a self-described non-Muslim and devout infidel you "decided" not to go!  Ajab!  Not that there is anything wrong with it!

When you give too much information minds start wondering and different people take it to mean differently.  I really did not and do not consider you arrogant.  The title of that blog was written before and you can follow the link in the blog.

Everything is sacred


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Soosan Khanoom

Oh MG ...MG ....MG

by Soosan Khanoom on Wed Apr 06, 2011 10:34 AM PDT

what should I do with you ? : )

I will throw away Shariati as soon as you brat throw away Marx  !


  •  
Mash Ghasem

...

by Mash Ghasem on Wed Apr 06, 2011 10:30 AM PDT

SK you could always reduce our reaction to Islam as peer presure, but most would call it enlightenment, a new Iranian awakening, and an Iranian renaissance. The critiques of Islam and Islam in Iran that has been produced by Iranians in the past two decades are  manifestaions of such a movement. For some it might start by throwing  away all that Sharieaty type of thinking, a  most confused one. cheers

AO sometimes we're the problem, sometimes we're the solution. One needs to contextualize each specific instance, generalities won't do. cheero


  •  
Anonymous Observer

Great blog COP jaan

by Anonymous Observer on Wed Apr 06, 2011 10:58 AM PDT

Most nations in the world have realized that they have to do things that are in their national interest in the 21st century, even if doing so runs contrary to their ideology (or religion in this case).  Che Guevara style revolutionarism (I don't think that's a word...but, hey) went out of style in the late 20th century.  The only country that still has a siginificant beret wearing, revolutionary, "citizen of the world" (the wolrd excludes Iran, of course) population inside and outside of its borders is, unfortunately, Iran.  That's why we are still beating our chests for Palestine and Bahrain while our own people are shot, raped, jailed and robbed by a mediaeval theocracy.  Other nations get it, we don't.  

BTW, during the uprisings in Egypt, Yemen, Tunisia, Libya, Syria, etc., did you EVER see a Dabashi type "pundit" or "expert" on Western TV stations saying that those people don't want to change the regime and that they just want civil rights?  By comparison how many of those do we have in our midst?  That should give you the answer.

Arabs are not the problem.  We are!

Thanks for the great blog, as ususal. 

 


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Cost-of-Progress

soosan

by Cost-of-Progress on Wed Apr 06, 2011 10:04 AM PDT

KSA is the keeper of Islam and the bloody sword it carries. Make no mistake about it.

I wrote what I experienced there with honesty. About the people and the folks I dealt with closely. All were pleasant people. I did feel for the millions of expats, but that is life and they do what they have to do. 

When one talks about Islam, one is referring to the doctrine and the institutiton. People are people no matter where you go. We all have our flaws and sometimes, our strengths.

And about the peer pressure: you are wrong dear. We do not know each other from Adam, so what "peer" pressure. When I say something here, good or bad, it comes from the heart!

____________

IRAN FIRST

____________


  •  
Soosan Khanoom

COP

by Soosan Khanoom on Wed Apr 06, 2011 09:56 AM PDT

Thanks for remaining objective and quite neutral in your blog although your replies have not ........

I think there is a peer pressure here on IC to make sure that one denies Islam or even anything that has to do with this religion ..... I think the minute you acknolwedge something about Islam you will loose your prestige and you are not cool anymore ...

I have read many great blogs of non muslims and Atheists who have travelled to Islamic countries including Saudi Arabia and if you want objectivity you should also read theirs ..... they do not feel any peer pressure so it can be an honest write ...... 

Just know that Wahabeeis in Saudi Arabia are not the Rep of Islam ... as a matter of fact no country is. 

I also think it is a great experience if one can make it to those two cities ....... it won't hurt after all .... 

Do not judge anything based on a few Hajees that you have encountered in your life .... also do not let peer pressure holds you down  ........ 

Over all I still think you were honest in describing your trip

I have travelled to that land ..... It is not a place that I want to stay not even a minute more than I have to .... I also have noticed that women are no where to be found and basically are not allowed to work in public setting but unfortunately they are allowed to be beggars.... What a shame ..

I found the five times prayers so annoying at the same time I found it quite amazing .......  It is totally a different experience compare to any other places that I have travelled .......  

I saw Kabe with millions of pilgrims ....... I found it to be not the house of God but the house of people ...... Where else  can you gather all those different colors ,different languages. different races, and different countries together in peace and harmony ?

 

 

 


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Cost-of-Progress

Esfand, you really feel strong about this, don't you?

by Cost-of-Progress on Wed Apr 06, 2011 09:50 AM PDT

You went and wrote a whole blog about it. But dude, you are wrong, most iranians are muslim by descent and descent only.

May be I'm missing something here. Religion is a personal thing. I once saw a bumper sticker that has stayed with me. It said: "Earth is my country and to do good is my religion". Just because we were born in a country that NOW identifies itself first as a muslim country does not mean we are muslims for life - We are not. Besides, people are free to choose whatever religion they want - even though one choice may be to reject organized religion all together.  I am not sure what arrogance has to do with any of this, but I do not view the stance of rejecting religion all together arrogant. I view it as being able to think independently and see beyond the bullshit that is organized religion. My not being muslim has little to do with the current representatives of the religion in Iran. It started around the age 15 when I realized one can think independently, so while your heritage may be Islam, mine is NOT.

____________

IRAN FIRST

____________


  •  
Esfand Aashena

COP jaan once a Muslim always a Muslim!

by Esfand Aashena on Wed Apr 06, 2011 08:39 AM PDT

You can't just self-proclaim yourself a non-Muslim!  It doesn't work that way.  Your response reminded me of a blog I had written before in Persianmirror.com so I re-produced it today with some more caveat about your comment here.

Please don't take my blog in the wrong way as I've explained there.  I don't want you to change for the better or worse!  We are who we are!  As a final advice I'd still recommend you take a tour of at least the surrounding areas and get the experience from your own perspective.  It'd just be the scenery! 

Everything is sacred


  •  
Cost-of-Progress

Esfand, I thought about writing about

by Cost-of-Progress on Wed Apr 06, 2011 05:05 AM PDT

what you just mentioned in the blog, but decided against it as it would have taken the "neutrality" out of the blog (I did try to be objective).

But, no, as an infidel and a proclaimed non-muslim (says so on my visa), I cannot step inside the so called holy cities as only the believers of Allah and his army of fearless sword fighting warriors, the protectors of Islam - can enter these cities. I would have probably liked to go to Medina, but no can do.

Religions always crack me up with their made up rules and who can do what, where and how.

____________

IRAN FIRST

____________


  •  
Esfand Aashena

So COP are you going to go through the vee waki voo hoo = Haj?!

by Esfand Aashena on Wed Apr 06, 2011 04:07 AM PDT

While you're there why not?!  You can put on some sheet and walk around in it and go through the experience! You may never get the chance again! 

Everything is sacred


  •  
Pahlevan

Great blog

by Pahlevan on Tue Apr 05, 2011 07:02 PM PDT

Thank you, COP jan. I greatly enjoyed reading your blog :)


  •  
Cost-of-Progress

Responses

by Cost-of-Progress on Tue Apr 05, 2011 04:56 PM PDT

Thanks for reading the blog my cyber friends. I feel like a new person after this experience...he he, just kidding! 

Esfand - One can only stand so much bar hopping and partying while in KSA, but I managed....

Mash Ghasem - Your info is partly correct. When a person goes to work in KSA, he (yeah he) gives up his passport and recieves an ID card. The passport is given back to him upon returning to his homeland. This is true for all expats not just Pakis.

There are around 7-8 million expats in KSA mostly from Pakistan, India, Bangladesh and Phillipins in KSA. I cannot vouch for how they are treated as non-arabs and non-Saudis, but I do not believe it is rosey based on what I observed. My refernce to prayers was not meant to be good or bad - it is just how it is!

HG - Thanks bud. No I did not have anyone giving me a wake-up-it's-prayer-time-call and did not have the morality cops follow after me, probably because I am CoP myself......LOL.

I got the feeling that the prayer thing is merely an inconvenient formality that the government is obliged to enforce. After all, they are the keepers and custodians of the religion of peace, no?  

Divaneh - Even for us, being from the general vicinity, it still is a rather wild experince going there and spending time. Glad you liked it. BTW I hang out about 300 KM north of Jeddah and I am sure being away from the center of the divine, the area is less conservative as it is mostly industrial.


  •  
divaneh

Thanks COP

by divaneh on Tue Apr 05, 2011 04:23 PM PDT

Very interesting and informative blog. It gaev me some food for thought too. It would be interesting to know which city you visited where you saw the woman without head cover. I've heard that Jeddah is more open whilst Riyadh (not to mention Mecca and Medina) is more conservative.


  •  
hamsade ghadimi

good to hear from you

by hamsade ghadimi on Tue Apr 05, 2011 01:57 PM PDT

good to hear from you cop.  so are you a haji now? :)  my lebanese friend (from college days) had to go to saudi arabia for work and had lots of funny stories.  one of them was about the obssession with prayers.  his first morning, he got a call from the hotel clerk at 5 a.m. telling him to pray.  at first, he thought it was a prank call but when he started to argue with the caller he realized that the clerk goes over the hotel guest list and wakes up the moslems.  did they do that to you?  also one time he got caught outside during prayer time and found himself with a bunch of scared indian and bangladeshis hiding behind the garbage cans in the street running away from the morality police during prayer time.  he couldn't believe that he's on a business trip and playing hide and go seek in the middle of the day with the morality police!

by the way, last time i was in iran, i heard that for haj s.a. is banning mohre namaaz and copy of any qoran that is not solely in arabic.  they tear any qoran that is not in arabic.  i guess the target is mostly shiites, especially the eye-ranians.  the name of the 'body shop' in the picture above is translated to 'zee booty shop.'  nice.  very nice.


  •  
Mash Ghasem

Lucky for you, you weren't a worker from Pakistan,

by Mash Ghasem on Tue Apr 05, 2011 12:38 PM PDT

Upon entering the 'host' country, their passports are taken away, a mug shot with a number is taken, and they're basically treated by their brethren as slave labor.

Interesting observations: that five times a day story is just so horrible. You always think its bad, but...

P.S. One of the reasons the makeh pilgrims get a hard time, is IR's repeated attempts to turn Haj into a 'political' function, a number of Iranians used to get killed during the ceremonies, not all were regime's agents. Also keep in mind that, deep down we are all a bunch of fire worshipers, so having us (pseduo-muslims) at the House of God might cause some frictions!

P.S.S. Lebanese women, especially the ones from Beirut are as modern and advanced , if not more, as Iranian women.  


  •  
Esfand Aashena

از بساط لحو و لعب چه خبر؟!

Esfand Aashena
Tue Apr 05, 2011 12:02 PM PDT

It appears that JJJ's website has made Iranians as Arab haters in the eyes of Saudis, or I should say contributors to JJJ's website, he himself has no racist bone in his body!

Any kind of bar for foreigners or strip clubs or anything?!  So you eat kabob and tea for the duration of your stay?!  Not even Thai or Italian food?! 

Everything is sacred


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