Photo taken on the roof of Sheikh Bahai Bath in Isfahan
I had heard about Sheikh Bahai Bath in Isfahan since early childhood. The genius of a candle fueling a public bath amazed me. I also learned that some western scientists, trying to discover how it worked, damaged it to the point that it stopped functioning.
In February of 2009, I traveled to Isfahan. I found the city far more interesting than is generally known. A very nice combination of old and new, religious and secular, and a definite spirit of confidence and a strong will to preserve. There were mosques, churches, and a fire temple. Palaces, museums, old public baths and modern cafeterias coexisted peacefully.
On top of my to-see-list was Sheikh Bahai’s bath. The cab driver dropped me off at the Bazar and pointed to an alley. I followed the directions and came across an old door with a large lock on it. There was a notice by the government -I cannot remember whether it was municipal or some other level- asking those who had any claim to the property to step forward. I asked about and found out someone in a nearby shop had the key. A very kind old man came and let me in. I couldn’t believe what I saw: well, remnants of a fountain and a few stairs amongst rubble and ruin. I kept looking for things I had read about, but the place might have as well been just about anywhere. I went upstairs and took the only photo I could think of. It doesn’t say much or perhaps mean much, but I just wanted to have something with me.
I am -unfortunately- used to seeing neglected historical sites and buildings all over Iran. In some places, I have seen people determined to ruin them. I saw young men in Darab throwing stones at carvings on a rock depicting Dariush; I saw men in Dezful lighting fire to make kabob right by Yaqub Leis tomb, … Never in Isfahan: this was the only place that seemed to have been left out by people who, otherwise, seemed so proud of their city.
