Blog

Should I even be here?

“We're being followed,” my translator Nadeem said, repeating the message that Mohammad, the driver of our “chase” or second car, had just relayed via walkie-talkie.

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Heavy metal Islam

An email sent to friends last week: Dear All, It is Ramadan, the Muslim holy month of fasting and mourning for the Prophet Mohmamad, during

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B

At the hospital, I meet Ahman, his chubby cherubic 20-year-old face scarred with burn marks, his arms charred to the bone, as he lies on

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The red zone

Dear All, Another tiring checkpoint and traffic jam on the road between Najaf and Baghdad loom up ahead. I wait in the car, getting increasingly

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Payback time

Dear All, The real fun starts when Green Day comes on. That's when the American soldiers, already hammered, out of uniform and making out lasciviously

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Crossing the border

After a while Northern Iraq or “Free Kurdistan” had started to become like a dream. It became a mysterious unreachable land that is the stuff

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Ignoring red lights

Everything here is a hassle. I called a gym to get membership info. The guy told me I'd have to come to the gym first.

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