"I just got back from Iran."
In today's America, that's a conversation-stopper. Those of us able to say it become temporary objects of fascination, like our grandparents would have been if they had visited China or the Soviet Union in the 1950s. Traveling to Iran makes one seem like a bold adventurer on a dangerous foray into enemy territory.
The reality is more prosaic. Although few Americans visit Iran, there is in fact no legal obstacle to doing so. I accompanied a group of American tourists on a thousand-mile, two-week trip through the country. We met no government or opposition leaders, but we were free to talk with ordinary Iranians, and did so at every stop. Because the government has made it difficult for Western journalists to work in Iran, traveling the country this way may now be the best way to gauge its people's mood.
The first thing that strikes Americans who visit Iran is how amazingly pro-American its people are. Nowhere else in the Middle East, nowhere else in the Muslim world, and almost nowhere else on earth do people so unreservedly admire the United States. Opinion surveys confirm this phenomenon, and I remembered it from previous visits. Nonetheless it was disorienting, in the heart of the purported axis of evil, to to be surrounded, as I was at Imam Square in Isfahan, by giddy female college students shrieking "We love America so much!" At a Persian garden in Kashan, I met a solemn elder whose only English phrase is "America very good," and who pronounced it with grave reverence.
Pro-American feeling in Iran is due mainly to Iranians' admiration for what the United States has achieved. Americans have what many Iranians want: democracy, personal freedom, and rule of law. Their desire for these blessings is not abstract or transitory. It is the product of their century of striving toward liberal democracy. Since the Constitutional Revolution of 1906, generations of Iranians have assimilated democratic ideals. Today their society is the opposite of their regime: open, tolerant, and eager to engage with the world. There is more long-term potential for democracy in Iran than almost anywhere else in the Muslim Middle East.
Pro-American sentiment in Iran is a priceless strategic asset for the US. A military attack would liquidate or at least severely weaken this asset. It would probably turn the most pro-American population in the Middle East into anti-Americans, further undermining the US position in the world's most volatile region.
The second thing I learned in Iran is that last year's explosion of anti-government protest is finished, at least for the moment. Governments use repression against protesters for the simple reason that it usually works. It has worked in Iran. Many people are unhappy -- it is impossible to estimate how many -- but no one I met predicted more upheaval soon. Life is reasonably good for most Iranians, and a possibly stolen election is not enough to force them from their homes to face beatings and arrest.
This suggests that if there are to be any negotiations with Iran over the next few years -- the amount of time it may take for the Iranian nuclear program to mature -- they will have to be with the current regime. Postponing a broad negotiating offer in the hope that the regime may fall is unrealistic.
Finally, I was struck -- though not surprised -- by the unanimity with which Iranians, even those who joined last year's protests and fervently support the reform agenda, reject help from the US or any other outside power.
"Many people don't like the regime, but they don't want the Americans to come and rule us," a shopkeeper in the Shiraz bazaar told me. "They would rather live under a regime they don't like than a regime placed in power by foreigners."
This sentiment is widespread and powerful in Iran. The reason is to be found in modern history. For most of the 19th and 20th centuries, Iran was ravaged by foreigners who subjugated its people and looted its resources. Whenever Iran has sought to modernize -- whether by building a steel mill in the 1930s or by nationalizing its oil industry in the 1950s -- outsiders have intervened to block it. This has made Iranians as sensitive to foreign intervention as any people in the world. It leads them to reject political forces that they see as sponsored, supported, or encouraged from abroad.
Some Americans would like to see Congress and President Obama embrace Iran's democratic movement vigorously and publicly. But not even the movement's own leaders want this support. Far from helping them, an endorsement from Washington would stigmatize them and de-legitimize their cause. Americans often assume that their support for like-minded friends in the world is helpful. In Iran, it would not be.
"Bush was very bad," mused a math teacher I found sitting beneath a fig tree in the town of Rayen. "Obama is a little better. But Iranian people believe that when America and England look at Iran and Arab countries, it is only because they want to steal what we have."
Sobering realities shape Iranian politics: There will be no regime change soon, and there is little the West can do to hasten it. Nonetheless, Iran may have more democratic potential than almost any other society in the Muslim world. Seventy percent of Iranians are under the age of 30. Change will come, but at Iran's pace, not America's.
In the meantime, centrifuges will keep spinning at Iran's nuclear plants. This looming crisis cries out for creative diplomacy, but Washington remains frozen in the paradigm of confrontation.
First published in HuffingtonPost.com.
AUTHOR
Stephen Kinzer is an author and newspaper reporter. He is a veteran New York Times correspondent who has reported from more than fifty countries on five continents.
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احسان نراقی: جامعه شناس و نویسنده ۱۳۰۵-۱۳۹۱ | Dec 02 | |
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گوهر عشقی: مادر ستار بهشتی | Nov 30 | |
Abdollah Momeni: Prisoner of the day | Activist denied leave and family visits for 1.5 years | Nov 30 |
محمد کلالی: یکی از حمله کنندگان به سفارت ایران در برلین | Nov 29 | |
Habibollah Golparipour: Prisoner of the day | Kurdish Activist on Death Row | Nov 28 |
''People such..
by khaleh mosheh on Fri Jul 16, 2010 02:15 PM PDT..as MasoudA, Fred, Amir, and other cowards hide behind a pseudo name and expect others openly fight IRI. It is only fair to ask what you cowards have done about the USA atrocities towards our country openly while hiding in the USA. '' says Javadagha
Now is not that ironic?
wow, "Javadagho"...your list keeps growing..
by Onlyiran on Fri Jul 16, 2010 02:14 PM PDTat first, it was only me, Fred and MassoudA. Now, you have added Amir to it...
BTW, do you cross reference your list with the one kept at "Imam Khomeini Airport" by your "vezarat etelaat" for when "najess" people like us go to Iran? :-)))
Amir1973 you are a reason many are not posting on Iranian.com
by Javadagha on Fri Jul 16, 2010 02:08 PM PDTAmir1973, CASMII does not list its members names. You must be looking at different site :-) I am glad Soraya is not posting on Iranian.com anymore. She has more courage than you, Masoud, Fred, and Onlyiran put together. Everybody must search her name and give credit to her. She is not a khaeyh mal like many Eye-ranians.
The people who you mentioned are known people and their work is available for others to see. I am waiting for your articles. Mine are available. Ask Fred. :-)
Coward + Moftkhor
by Javadagha on Fri Jul 16, 2010 01:54 PM PDTCoward + Moftkhor
What does CASMII have to do with the author? You say CASMII supports IRI, provide your evidence.
Have a shame. Search the people who have written articles or contributed to CASMII what they have done for Iran in terms of protecting its culture and people. They are using their real names.
People such as MasoudA, Fred, Amir, and other cowards hide behind a pseudo name and expect others openly fight IRI. It is only fair to ask what you cowards have done about the USA atrocities towards our country openly while hiding in the USA. Then we can talk about Freedumb of Speech!! Provide links to your articles so that we compare them to CASMII articles.
How "wise" can he be if Mola & CASMII like him?
by AMIR1973 on Fri Jul 16, 2010 10:59 AM PDTAn endorsement from Islamist hoodlums and their ilk is equivalent to a 30 point drop in IQ. Even if Kinzer was wise before, the IRI Groupies endorsement of him leaves him a lot less wise :-)
BTW, Kinzer is on the website of the IRI's CASMII goons under "Authors, contributors, and activists"
//www.campaigniran.org/CASMII/index.php?q=node/2583
Kinzer is a wise man
by Mola Nasredeen on Fri Jul 16, 2010 10:52 AM PDTCan you say the same about elected US representatives who are in the back pocket of Israel?
Wise Mola!!!!
by Demo on Fri Jul 16, 2010 10:03 AM PDTto provide free ride with his “icon” to his “Master(s0” in US media. $300 billion to establish IRA *Islamic Republic of Afghanistan” & failing?? Guess who was the first in the region to recognize the puppet governments of Iraq & Afghanistan & to place red carpets for their traitors & corrupt leaders visiting IRAN?? The greatest fear of the wise Mola(s) is (are) the return of Taliban to Afghanistan. And what if that happens????
We are ready . . . are you ready?
by Javadagha on Fri Jul 16, 2010 10:02 AM PDTYou are making less sense, as you post more that is okay!!There are other people such as Fred who post on daily basis their non-senses, everyone is entitled to their opinions, but you cannot go telling bomb another country unless you are crazy.
USA has over 5,000 nuclear war heads and Israel has anywhere from 200 to 400 warheads. They are telling others not to have it? You must be kidding us. The USA has recently attacked two sovereign nations illegally and Israel keeps taking USA tax dollars to build illegal settlements. How about writing a blog citing their illegal activities? USA financial institutions have brought the whole world down with their Los Vegas type loan practices and AIPAC is controlling the US Senate and Congress balls by forcing them to pass illegal sanctions. Stolen election? You must have short memory of what Bush and company did.
No country is perfect. Yes, Iranians are not happy with their regime. Are Americans happy with their government? Ask millions of them who do not have a job or are collecting unemployment. Here is a link to read their discussions:
//news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20100714/ts_nm/us_usa_economy_unemployment#mwpphu-container
Do not mix up the issues. Iranians will block with their bodies the straight of Hormoz and choke the aggressors and their cronies in the region a good history lesson. We are ready, are you ready?
Get Real! (and get ready...)
by eroonman on Fri Jul 16, 2010 09:01 AM PDTThe Us and more importantly Israel CANNOT allow Iran to acquire a nuke. Iran has it in their hands to provoke the response that has been planned and simulated and gamed to a conclusion that the collateral damage AND the loss of the Iranian public sentiment is acceptable in return for destroying Iran's facilities.
Most Iranians when asked (if they dare to answer) are in favor of the government's cover argument, and that is the innocent development of nuclear ENERGY. No one has polled Iranians to see if they actually want to enter the Nuclear Arms Race in the region!!! The intelligent guess is they would NOT! WHO WOULD!!!!
Don't use polls of "average Iranians". They are invalid due to the fear factor and intimidation the IRI places on each "citizen", and so any answers given by a poll are biased.
I'm not a proponent of an attack, BUT I do place the FULL RESPONSIBILITY AND BLAME on Iran for a useless endeavor that will get Iranians (mostly workers in the facilities) killed, and bring Iran even further into the now comfortable role of BIGGEST A**HOLE IN THE MIDDLE EAST.
The crime is Iran's, because we aren't this. This is not our true nature or national character.
This is a New And Improved Shiite Iran that the IRI want to turn Iran into, who have done so without any authority and with brutal force and oppression consistently for the past 30 years, to the point where quite a few people on this blog comment thread think they now must defend this as a rightful Iranian People's choice.
Really! So Iran deserves to further nuclear proliferation purely because it wants to, and because it's simply fun to poke Israel, a country no one really cares about except the Palestinians and the US, in the eye.
Well, I don't agree. I think Iran has plenty to do internally as a culture, as a nation in the MODERN WORLD, and most importantly as a free people. These are Iran's priorities, not playing Robin Hood to help save Palestine or Lebanon.
Getting a nuke when the US and Israel doesn't like it, is purely bad business when you are oppressing your people, stealing elections, and generally living up to the axis of evil label.
Yes, yes, yes, the US and Israel are bad too, I agree. But that does not excuse our national morality and priorities. We should, as a just and good people, reflect that in our government.
Once again, Iranians are putting off doing the hard work internally, and are focused on useless adventurism outside Iran.
We will never get anywhere if we continue this path. Oh wait... never mind, I forgot! The whole point IS to be POINTLESS!
Got it, no, you are right. Better to have nukes, and provoke the retaliation and then complain and whine about it forever, start a world war and get even over and over and over again, until we all die or are so polarized and afraid that they can finally snuff out the last vestiges of hope in all of us.
What a wonderful option. Have a great weekend.
Mr Kinzer, an Israeli lobby member he is not
by Mola Nasredeen on Fri Jul 16, 2010 08:23 AM PDTA peaceful man, he is. A wise man he is. United States has spent over 300 billion dollars in Afghanistan and what does she have to show for it?
Twisting Facts!
by G. Rahmanian on Fri Jul 16, 2010 04:56 AM PDTStephen Kinzer says:
"Opinion surveys confirm this phenomenon, and I remembered it from previous visits. Nonetheless it was disorienting, in the heart of the purported axis of evil, to to be surrounded, as I was at Imam Square in Isfahan, by giddy female college students shrieking '"We love America so much!'"
Has he forgotten that "...the purported axis of evil," came long after the US was labled "the Great Satan" and more than two decades of slogans such as "Down with America" orchestrated by the regime in Tehran?
The "leaders"
by Fred on Fri Jul 16, 2010 03:58 AM PDT“Some Americans would like to see Congress and President Obama embrace Iran's democratic movement vigorously and publicly. But not even the movement's own leaders want this support.”
Could Mr. Kinzer name these “leaders” of the “democratic movement”?
Is he talking about the former two terms Islamist PM who has yet to answer for his culpability in mass murders of Iranians on his watch and who to this day advocates the “golden era of Imam” and following the Islamist Constitution?
Or is he talking about charlatan Khatami and his illustrious record in helping other Islamists to pacify fed up Iranians?
Or could it be his democratic movement “leaders” might be refereeing to the long time mass murderer Khomeini devotee and former “Speaker of the Majlis” who too wants to work within the Constitution of the IRR.
BTW is this the same Mr. Kinzer who is the favorite of NIAC lobby and its conjoined twin CASMII lobby which the latter organization is into arranging field trips to Iran for gullible and useful lefties?
well written
by Niloufar Parsi on Fri Jul 16, 2010 01:16 AM PDTbut it's unlikely that the americans really care about 'sentiments' among ordinary iranians. it's all about oil greed and theft.
Well said Ahmed
by Mehman on Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:37 AM PDTYou are a true friend of Iran, even though not born in the country.
Pro-American
by Aratar on Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:34 PM PDTRe: "almost nowhere on earth do people so unreservedly admire the United States"
I started this post as a retort, but I suppose the "almost" absolves the need for that. Anyway, per polls at least, the MOST pro-American place on earth, more pro-American than America itself, is Albania.
It is a long story why, but I doubt anyone would be interested to hear it.
I was not born in Iran
by Ahmed from Bahrain on Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:05 PM PDTbut since the revolution, I have visited Iran 8 times. I can say the writer is on the ball.
Those Iranians who are high on Los Angeles fumes should visit Iran and go traveling around. With a bit of countryside fresh air, they will come to the same conclusion.
If Saudi Arabia, Egypt, Bahrain, Iraq and Afghanistan are anything to go by then thanks but no thanks. No American soldier should be allowed to set foot on the Persian soil.
I met an older Iranian gentleman here in New Zealand who told me that he will be the first to return and take up arms to fight the Americans if they attacked Iran. This from a man who has had enough of IRI and had sought refuge in NZ.
Anyone who advocates bombing Iran or appointing Washington stooges his heart capillaries has narrowed and does not pump enough Persian blood to qualify him/her as a native.
As for who rules Iran, this is a matter for the Iranians to decide, not the so-called "international community".
The article states "Seventy percent of Iranians are under the age of 30." This is an Evolution waiting to happen. Just a matter of time.
Lango maro be sayeh, ke sayeh khosh mi'ayeh.
Ahmed from Bahrain
I last visited Iran in 2004
by AMIR1973 on Thu Jul 15, 2010 09:32 PM PDTDuring the Golden Age of IRI's so-called "Reform". I stayed there over a month and travelled to a number of different cities and provinces sightseeing and visiting relatives (and no, most of my time was not in northern Tehran--though I spent a few days there too; in fact, most of my time was spent outside Tehran). I spent time with my relatives, most of whom are "momen" people and do their "namaz"; my relatives include university professors and students, bazaaris, business owners, and different types of professionals--dentists, doctors, teachers, people who work in government departments, etc). Is that not recent enough? I know AN has made IRI a prosperous, advanced, and free society since the last time I was there :-)
Javadagha, the best education we Iranians living abroad (just as you, Mola, and the other West-residing IRI Groupies live abroad) have of the garbage IRI regime is visiting Iran for ourselves and talking to our Iranian relatives who visit us in the West. They, more than anyone else, loathe the IRI and lament the state of affairs there. I came back from Iran a lot more anti-IRI than I went in. In fact, I was a little embarrassed because when I first visited, I actually defended the IRI and my relatives were more anti-IRI in their views than I was.
Western media has done excellent job of brain washing Eye-ranian
by Javadagha on Thu Jul 15, 2010 08:54 PM PDTWestern media has done an excellent job of brain washing Eye-ranians.
Good question Molla Nasreedin jaan, hehe. :-))
When was the last time you visited Iran?
by Mola Nasredeen on Thu Jul 15, 2010 08:46 PM PDTI may ask.
Another Iran expert
by Iraniandudee3 on Thu Jul 15, 2010 08:39 PM PDTWe have too many people coming here claiming they know
everything by merely visiting Iran once or reading something online.
If you want to talk or get into politics, then educate yourself first and don't rush in.
Shameless!
by G. Rahmanian on Thu Jul 15, 2010 08:18 PM PDT"Life is reasonably good for most Iranians, and ..."
This is a shameless lie, Mr. Stephen Kinzer. Even the staunchest pro-regime enteties would hesitate to say, "life is good for most Iranians." Simply because they know the regime has created a country-wide hell for most Iranians.
Shame on you!
The kiss of Mola (& "leftish" souls lost in the Land of Eye Ran)
by AMIR1973 on Thu Jul 15, 2010 06:59 PM PDTSince Mola has endorsed Kinzer, the guy has got to be a crook. Mola's kiss is more lethal than Judas Iscariot (and his breath is not nearly as fresh :-)
Speaking of the Code Pink "leftish" ilk and their trek to the Democratic People's Islamic Republic of Iran (DPIRI), this is a good read by an Iranian leftist with a heart and a brain:
//revolutionaryflowerpot.blogspot.com/2008_11_01_archive.html
"Our people's ignorance" you say?
by Mola Nasredeen on Thu Jul 15, 2010 06:54 PM PDTSpecially those ones who live outside of Iran, they're an small minority I should add.
Wise Mola???
by Demo on Thu Jul 15, 2010 06:43 PM PDTHufington Post is an integral part of the Terror-west (and not Terror-east) Media of Mass Deceptions!!! Norman "Wisdom" was an American comedian of 1950's who passed away long ago!!!! Mola(s) Nassseredin(s) has (have) been surviving, however, for centuries in Iran because of our people ignorance!!
Kinzer, Wise American
by Mola Nasredeen on Thu Jul 15, 2010 06:50 PM PDT"Sobering realities shape Iranian politics: There will be no regime change soon, and there is little the West can do to hasten it. Nonetheless, Iran may have more democratic potential than almost any other society in the Muslim world. Seventy percent of Iranians are under the age of 30. Change will come, but at Iran's pace, not America's."
I was just wondering until...
by comrade on Thu Jul 15, 2010 04:53 PM PDT...I saw the publisher's name: The Huffington Post. Then I simply diswondered!
visit....//www.tudehpartyiran.org/mardom.asp
There is one born every minute!...
by Landan-Neshin on Thu Jul 15, 2010 04:50 PM PDT.....but if its in America, add a couple more.
The author's considered opinion based on his observations beggars belief, but, after all, these are the sons and daughters of those American journalists who in 1945 wrote article after article saying how much the French and Italian people adored Americans for having liberated them. Not long had passed before 'Yankee go home' graffiti covered the streets of Paris and Rome and American GIs were looted.
There is no nation as naive and as desperately in need of being loved as the Americans. They die for being loved but don't know how to earn it. They genuinely wonder why Afghans and Iraqis don't love them for having liberated them at a great cost!
I don't know if there is any connection between the photograph above and the author but it reminded me of the first Tehran International Trade Fair after the revolution in 1981. Visiting a German friend who was in chrge of explaining the technical aspects of some heavy machinery to the interested Iranian industrialists, I noticed a group of young women who looked like being students. One of them asked me if I knew the 'engineer'!! Are you reading industrial engineering I replied! while giggling among themselves, she said no, but he is gorgeous!!!
Now, one can only wonder!!
Tags along with Code Pink and Amy Goodman
by Louie Louie on Thu Jul 15, 2010 03:57 PM PDTSo everything is peachy and dandy!
People expect to go Iran and see bloodshed and beheadings in daylight so they don't see it and they think well you know it's not that bad at all. But they don't get to see the high unemployment and unpaid wages and a very morally bankrupt society.
wow....
by shushtari on Thu Jul 15, 2010 03:01 PM PDTthis guy has some nice points......however, the bazari's comments which say: "They would rather live under a regime they don't like than a regime placed in power by foreigners."
is very telling about the ignorance- after all, there is more than ample proof the the akhoonds are indeed the product of french, british, and american(meaning jimmy carter)- an idiot like khomeini, and the rest of his goons could IN NO WAY TAKE OVER AN ENTIRE COUNTRY on their own....
SO IN REALITY, THE MULLAHS ARE THE WORST FORM OF FOREIGN INTERFERENCE IN IRAN'S HISTORY, MUCH WORSE THAN 1953 OR BEFORE
IT IS TRUE THAT THE IRANIAN PEOPLE LOVE THE US, BUT THEY ALSO HATE THE GUTS OF THIS REGIME AND WANT TO BE RID OF IT...
JAVID IRAN
Excellent article
by Abarmard on Thu Jul 15, 2010 02:05 PM PDTGreat insight and good observation. Thank you and happy traveling.