Journey to Tehran

Iranians are strong-willed, dynamic, courteous... and fatalistic in a pessimistic way


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Journey to Tehran
by Nadine Sultana d’Osman Han
12-Nov-2007
 

Tehran greeted me on January 3rd, 2007  around 5 am at the Tehran International Airport Mehrabad where courteous but thorough officials waved me through immigration to The Islamic Republic of Iran.

The legendary hospitality of the Orient was fully confirmed as a committee, dispatched by the Conference that I was to attend, sent at this inconvenient hour three members to greet me with a beautiful flower arrangement.  I went to many Conferences in my lifetime but was never made to feel so welcome or special!  This is what I call civilization at its best—especially when one realizes that I am the holder of an American passport that at the present time distinguished me as not an ideal guest.

Tehran is an enormous city of 14 million people that struck me from the onset as being very orderly.  Yet, the presence of police or military personnel is very scarce.  I was also struck by the honesty of the Iranians I met.  One does not see many children in the streets and that is probably due to the traffic that is as unruly as the pedestrians are orderly!  Perhaps, the overwhelming number of cars in a very dynamic city of that size might make it unavoidable, as well as its pollution, particularly in the South of the city that is lower than the North.

Tehran appeared to me as a dynamic and prosperous city.  Like all large cities, the city is divided between the wealthy (in the North of the City) and the not so wealthy in the South of the city.  Yet, contrary to let us say New York city, I did not see the dire poverty of homeless citizens curled up in carton boxes with no access to the most elementary hygiene facilities, while affluent citizens pass by without an awareness of their plight or even existence.  In New York, they are just part of the decor, perhaps much as a trash can.

While Tehran might not be paradise, (and I know of no place that might be for after all we are on earth not in heaven), the citizens have some freedom that they take for granted such as:  one can park one’s own car without paying for expensive and limited space parking meters, as is customary in the US, Europe and other places, not only in large cities but in small towns as well.  In addition, citizens in and around Tehran are not monitored by over-zealous policemen that watch every move, just in case one might over-speed or act strangely or who knows what.  If a country invests enormous amounts of money in technology it makes sense to use it in order to justify its expense.   Some behavior might be more restricted in Iran, but this might be why I did not see gang-style youths that might render streets unsafe.  I felt perfectly at ease walking along the streets of Tehran, in spite of the language barrier that was the main obstacle I encountered during my stay.  The alphabet is particularly intimidating to a foreigner for it makes one feel illiterate.

Since I came to Tehran to attend the 25th Fadjr International Theatre Festival, I shall comment on my observations on this topic.  I do not know what I was expecting but certainly not the openness granted to the plays.  Overall, Iranian plays, based on the few that I saw, appeared to favor tragedies much as the Greeks—although perhaps with a morality attached to it, and certainly some rebellion of a sort.  The Iranian actors impressed me by their acting abilities that showed depth.  Theatre can be unforgiving to actors particularly where decor are kept to a minimum as seems to be the case in most Iranian plays.  The education in Iran must be high.  All the youths and adults I talked to were dynamic in intellectual pursuits, very knowledgeable in diversified subjects, nothing superficial about it.  Naturally, the Persian culture has produced many outstanding scholars, and modern Iran has not forgotten its legacy.

On this short journey to Iran, and alas I was able to be introduced only to Tehran, my impression of Iran is that its citizens are strong-willed, dynamic, courteous with a great sense of hospitality yet not servile, and fatalistic in a pessimist way as opposed to the Turks who are fatalistic with an incurable optimism.

In conclusion, in my opinion the main differences between Iran, Turkey and USA are:

The Iranians are very ambitious, yet they are realistic and fatalistic in pessimism.  There is an element of contradiction in their behavior between today’s aspirations and the legacy of their highly sophisticated and civilized culture.

The Turks are modest at heart and fatalistic yet optimistic.

The Americans are superficial in their ambitions with the proverbial attitude that “the ends justifies the means”.


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Some iranians see it either

by LostIdentity (not verified) on

Some iranians see it either black or white. Anything that relates to iran is considered being bad because of ruling regime.For this, everything to relate to Iran is bad, bad abd bad. Nothing is good! If you list billion bad things to these low lives, they're not satisfied and they want more, more and more.

The reverse is true as well, The people in power think everything they do is right even if it is wrong!

hope this selfish and dogmatic generaion will disappear soon then we will have a good Iran.


jamshid

Re: Arezu

by jamshid on

Arezu says: "you...barking out with your usual hatred towards IRI." And what do you have us do with IRI? Softly sing peoms in its praise with our usual "love" towards IRI? Would that be better for you?

 

She then asks: "What did anything I had to say about Iran have anything to do with IRI?" Let me tell you something about Iranians. Any one who praises our killers and torturers, you hear that? ANYONE, will become instantly the subject of Iranians' wrath. Iranians, inside and outside of Iran, don't take it lightly when our occupiers, our torturers and killers are prasied. Got that? Get used to it.

 

Then she "opines": "Maybe you were taught to respect foreigners only and not Iranians..." And who the heck are you to know what I was taught? Just who?

The ranting and counter examples you wrote about the US governement is just that: Ranting. How could you compare the US government where the rights of its pet DOGS are protected, with the IRI where women are stoned to death and children executed?

 

Do you understand the shalowness of YOUR argument?

 

Then she resort to accusations and says that "maybe you are foreign agents..." That's right Arezu! I am a paid member of CIA, Mossad and SIS COMBINED! But wait, that's not all! You see I am a double agent! I am also paid by Savama! hala khaateretoon raazi shod?

 

In your limited intellect, anyone who opposes the IRI is a foreign agent. Yeah right... How convenient for you...

 

Then she says this bit: "I don't know what hatred you have towards the Iranian people..." She is using a TYPICAL IRI method of accusation, by placing the anti-IRI persons in a group of people that "hate all Iranians", and therefore suggesting that she and her likes are the ones who oh, "love Iranians". eh Arezu? You imbecile, this method may work among the villagers in Iran, but not here.

 

Then she continues with typical boring accusations: "Your love should be towards the land that you admire so much Israel..." Yeah right! And your love should be towards the land that YOU admire so much Arabia.

 

Then she suggests that we repeat IRI, IRI, IRI until we get tired. Get tired so that you and your likes could loaf off with the plundered wealth of the Iranian people in the streets of LA or London or wherevere the heck you may be? Sorry won't happen...

 

Then she says: "Nop you guys are not Iranian..." And what? YOU are Iranian? You who turn your face from the torture, imprisonment, murder, assasination, rape of your countrymen? It is YOU who is not Iranian. Why don't you "bi vatan" va "khaen" just leave and go make your own country somewhere in Arabia or in Iraq and leave the Iranian people alone?

 

Then she asks: "Who are your masters; Mossad agents; Richard Perle; Podhoretz; Ann Coulter; Horowitz; Michael Ledeen?" Nobody is our masters, you traitor. Our master is Iran, democracy and the happiness of the Iranian people. Something that "YOUR" masters have taken away from them for 29 years. Something that some day soon, YOU and your masters have to give back.

 

And don't you dare to consider your worthless scum bag piece of garbage self among the "real Iranians".

 

 


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dear arezoo

by pullniro (not verified) on

dear arezoo
i am writing from behind a filter proxy and i feel the censorship in our mother land, yet i cannot feel my shame and rage when i see our compatriots who have live in democratic countries could not tolerate one single opinion and resort to personal attack on each other. i have seen this behavior on los algeles tvs too. so on behalf of all of us who are surviving in tehran i apologize to you. god bless you


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Alborz and Jamshid

by Cyrus- (not verified) on

Hi
what Arezu is saying is that you can dis-agree with one's view of what is going on in Iran , but that does not mean that you can insult her and put her down.
And that is what an idiot did in a comment earlier on.
If you read the comment by that jerk in his later effort to show what a low life he is you see what I mean.
some of you did oppose her view and kept it in a civil manner, what is wrong with that?


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Try it one more time Nadine!

by iranian (not verified) on

Thank you Nadine for your thoughtful observation of Tehran and Iranian culture.
Are you amazed by the amount of negative comments under your article?
Why so? It is natural, you are writing an article in 'anti-iranian.com' and expecting praises?!
If you expect praises for your comments try another article with disgusting and false depiction of Tehran and its people and you will see many favourable commentaries by anti-iranians.
Try it!


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Civlity!

by Ajam (not verified) on

As customary in many online magazines, a visitor's view of a new land is welcomed as a personal experience without a political judgement. This lady has expressed her personal take of a short trip to Iran as do many others in and from every corner of this planet-- be it under IRI. She did not offer her opinion as a political analyst, not even as a sociologist or anthropologist.

Just because the reflection of her experience does not cater to the desperate aspirations of some of us, she does not deserve to be subjected to such unwarranted bashing. If we do not have the civility and tolerance for the harmless opinions of a visitor to our motherland, perhaps we dserve to be ruled by the IRI!


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Hey Arezu, is it that part of the month?

by Anonymous^2 (not verified) on

It seems you need to go to the bathroom and change yourself!?


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A Deeper Look By an Iranian

by Hesam (not verified) on

1. We are not Persians anymore. About 200 years ago we became Farsi-speaking, Arab Shia Moslims with Mollahs as mentors. A true Persian neither kisses Western butts nor obeys illiterate, lazy, backward Qom Mollahs.
2. Tehran is a dirty, smoggy, disorganized ant-farm where 14,000,000 arrogant, stupid, socially uncivilized (minus a few good ones) people fight over money to pay for highly overpriced junk imported from all over the world but our own factories. The city where drivers are sworn not to ever drive civilized, ever obey the law and ever drive inside a single lane.
3. There are military and police present everywhere. They're wearing wrinckled suits, chador and they look at the people as if they are a combination of Napoleon and Rambo. If you like to locate them just yell "Death to Jomhurie Eslami."
4. The freedom in Iran is "the right to move freely inside a cage." You are basically free to do everything they want you to do and nothing of what you want to do.
5. Similarly, the elections in Iran is a free election of candidates pre-screened and pre-selected by Arab Mollahs.
6. We are even less Persian now than just 50 years ago during the times of Mossadeq. Even then Iranians dressed in white shirts and suits, acted civilized and cared for one another.

Yes, we may someday become Persians again, but to do that we have to separate ourselves from everything that is forced on us, everything that our illiteracy makes us do and everything that's not 100% Persian. We have to start with ourselves. Act civilized and kind, no matter what. Not support any war or anyone who destroys basic human rights. To drive inside 1 lane, not to cut people off, not to honk the horn, not to park in the side-walk.......
Until then all we can do is to brag about Kourosh and Darioush!


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Pathetic how full of hatred you are of everything

by Arezu (not verified) on

One can't even comment about a visitors' visit to ones' country without you people just waiting at the opportunity to come barking out with your usual hatred towards IRI. What did anything I had to say about Iran have anything to do with IRI? Why is it that if people discuss the beauty of Iran, Iranian culture and the kindness of its people you take it to a different dimension of Evin prison and other nonsense? Where did this come from?

If I say Washington D.C. is beautiful are you going to respond back with - do you have a clue what the CIA and FBI are doing? Do you know how the Bush Administration has stepped all over the U.S. Constitution? Do you know that we are being illegally wire tapped? Do you know that Iranians are being racially profiled by the FBI? Do you know how many innocent prisoners are being held in prisons in this country and secret prisons spread across other countries?

Do you understand the shallowness of your comments? Guess not, if you did, you would not be speaking like this.

Maybe you were taught to respect foreigners only and not Iranians, this has not been the experience of many of us and obviously not the majority of Iranians in Iran. The proof is in the pudding; no we don't have homeless people like we have in this country. And don't tell me that is because they are taking in homeless foreigners into their home!! Yes, Iranians are kind, and carrying. I understand there are many exceptions to the rule, and you people are obviously a good example of those exceptions.

Maybe you have never been to Iran and have no clue, and are foreign agents. God, knows who some of you are posting comments on this web-site!!

I don't know what hatred you have towards the Iranian people, but don't call yourself Iranian, and put Iranians to shame with your hatred, and prejudice.

If I am an IRI then you are clearly Zionists, and neocons. Your love should be towards the land that you admire so much Israel. What the hell are you doing on this web-site? You should be placing your comments on Jerusalem Post or Haaretz, oops I forgot even Haaretz is too liberal for you.

Even so, by all means if you need to get your frustrations out for the day, call me IRI. Go ahead repeat your daily mantra; , IRI, IRI, IRI, IRI… write it 1000 times until you get it out of your system. And if you still have not gotten it out, continue for another round of 1000, and if that doesn’t stop continue day in and day out, until you get tiered of yourself and so exhausted that you can’t write, read, talk, eat, drink, sleep, walk etc. GO ON START!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Unfortunately too many Zionists and neocons have infiltrated this web-site in order to misinform readers and pass their hateful propaganda. Nop you guys are not Iranian and if you are, I don't know in what jungle you have been raised in.

What is it that you are afraid of if someone says anything positive about Iran and the Iranian people? Are you afraid that you have not fulfilled your mission of passing misinformation and propaganda and can’t report back to your bosses that your “mission for the day was successfully accomplished”?

Who are your masters; Mossad agents; Richard Perle; Podhoretz; Ann Coulter; Horowitz; Michael Ledeen? Or all of these scum bags!!

As for the gentleman/or gentlewomen called Alborz, you are absolutely right there is no unity among Iranians you just proved it. There can't be because most of you are so full of hatred, and bigotry. How unfortunate, that you bring this tragedy upon yourself.

Jesus, one can't even have a decent discussion without getting bombarded by you people.

Thank God, for the real Iranians!! Thank God for the rest of us!


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ridicule has nothing to do with being Iranian or not

by NoDictatorship of Anykind (not verified) on

Klye says, "But you are an Iranian after all, and sometimes we just can't help but to make such statements as to ridicule some poor guy from..."

I say to Kyle - Silly, ridicule has nothing to do with being Iranian or not. You just stop stereotyping Iranians. Iranians come in
Varieties.


alborz

Arezu, please get a grasp...

by alborz on

...of reality.  Have you ever asked yourself why Iranians are so hospitable towards foreigners? Have you asked yourself why you think that Iranians are accepting of people of different cultural and religious backgrounds? Have your ever examined anything beyond the first layer?  Perhaps this explains why you are enamored with this article.

                                                                      

Iranians are one of the most disunited people and yet you think that we are very hospitable !  Don't you think that our hospitality towards foreigners stems from the deep desire to be accepted by others?  Is this not why we ex-pats demonstrate the least amount of cooperation amongst minorities in this nation and around the world?

 

Please think. 

 

As for being accepting of those that are different, how do you explain the persecutions that are rampant in Iran against religious minorities and the differential treatment of ethnic groups? 

 

Please think again.   

 

As for being civilized, what dictionary have you been using recently? Are you still using the one from the 6th century? Even one from the 18th century will cause you to reconsider the usage of the word civilized in this context.

 

Please keep thinking.       

                                          

Finally, the world is in the mess that it is because of blind nationalism and prejudice towards those that are different from us and you are not helping by not getting past your misinformed, and uninformed view of us and the world. 

 

Now stop thinking, start reading and become world embracing in your views so that you see things as they are and not as you like to see them.

 

Alborz


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A tourist is there to enjoy

by A kid from South Tehran (not verified) on

Fellows, calm down. Anyone who travels to a foreign land will generally offer respect and the shorter the time the more memorable sometimes it becomes. A clean hotel, curtious service providers, good food and no stolen goods and no blodd shed. Voila! That was a good vacation.

I had the same feeling visiting many cities in my life, I fell in love with many of my observations. Sure, if you stay for three weeks you might commit hara-kiri with a shishkabab stick.

So, this lady had a few days and had a good time and wants to show her gratitude, what is all these comments about irrelevant issues?

You can't expect her to write a book, this is all one would jot down for a short trip....

that's my two cents...


alborz

Unwarranted defense by Cyrus...

by alborz on

...of a poorly written article can only be explained by a desire for acceptance and compensation for gross deficiencies in our society.  There are 70 million able bodies that have chosen their fate to be what it is today. Even if every single ex-pat were to go back, they would be swallowed up the milieu in no time at all.  So count me out of this venture, but do let me know when you make it there.

Finally, my comments were not derogatory and remained polite and professional despite the fact that I have not minced words in expressing my views. If only everyone did the same...

Alborz


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//iranian.com/PhotoDay/1999/December/jannisari.html

by farzad (not verified) on


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Clearly an IRI Agent!!!!

by Kouroush Sassanian (not verified) on

Wow, people get to park free, but are anally violated . . . what a superstar...I am glad you are not a socialogist.

You cleary did not gooz in the masjed!


jamshid

Re: Arezu

by jamshid on

Arezu, nazanin Arezu, khanoom zadeh arezu talks about "rudeness" and "politeness"... Awwwww!! How sensitive of you Arezu...

 

From the comfort of your air conditioned home, why don't you talk about "rudeness" to the Evin prisoner who is getting tortured at this very moment? Why don't you talk about "politeness" to the freedome fighter who is about to be hanged? Or to the woman who is going to get stoned?

 

Here we have this "Nadine" depicting Iran as oh so clean and orderly and fine! Then we have people who react to her comments. Then YOU come in here and have the audacity to blame them for the false picture that "nadine" is creating here? And talk about rudeness of all things?


Ben Madadi

SWEATED...

by Ben Madadi on

One comment below said that there is no such word. There is. Why waste time? Look at a dictionary man, it's the 21-st century!


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There is no, Nadine Sultana d’Osman Han lady!? It is ...

by Shame on you (not verified) on

disgusting to see a herd of the pro-IR Regime disguising themselves behind non_Iranian identities like this African character in order to give validity and civility to the septic tank of Earth (i.e., the Islamic Republic!?) What won't you pro-Regime monsters resort to!? Shame on you!


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Arzu

by Cyrus- (not verified) on

Dear Arezu ;

Thank you very much for the wonderful comment you wrote. I just like to copy/paste your comment because you really hit the nail on the head.
Thanks again


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Why are some people so rude

by Arezu (not verified) on

To all of you who are belittling Nadine, and her background, shame on you!! There doesn't seem to be an ounce of civility in you people. According to you, everyone is bad; Arabs, Africans, Turks, Asians; the entire world maybe with the exception of U.S., England, France, and some other countries.

The lady was gracious enough to visit our mother land and share her impression with us. I don't think she ever dreamed that Iranians on this side of the ocean are so disrespectful, bigoted, and racist. Obviously she is right; the superficiality of the U.S. has made you lose the beauty and kindness of Persian culture. Thank God, that she had the opportunity of receiving a different reception from the Iranians she met in Iran.

Thank you Nadine for taking the time to write this article. Not all of us are rude. We have not been taught to hate people from different ethnic and religious backgrounds. We have always been a people and a country that have prided ourselves in being hospitable, kind, and civilized.

I hope that you may have many more opportunities of visiting Iran and see some of the most beautiful cities in the world and get to know the Iranian culture and people from all walks of life.

You brought up a very good issue about not finding homeless people in cartons as one sees here in the U.S. The reason is that in Iran people take care of their families, friends and those in need, regardless if the person is poor or rich. They share their home, their food, and whatever they have, even if they have one room. This is the beauty of Iranian culture, which in all honesty I have not witnessed in other countries that I have traveled to. I hope that we never lose this wonderful Iranian trait that always lures visitors to go back and visit Iran.

Thank you again.


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Kyle

by Cyrus- (not verified) on

Hi Kyle;
that iranian guy AN onimous^2 is just a jerk. He can't mind his manners. "people" like him/her are dime a dozen.
And as for Ben Medadi;
Ben there is no such word as sweated.
Kindly check your comment before signing off.


Ben Madadi

What I find in Tehran...

by Ben Madadi on

When I was in central Tehran the air had a constant smell, dirt, pollution etc. Freedoms were limited, nobody could drink alcohol in bars and restaurants because it was banned. And women sweated under the compulsory Islamic dress. There was no order in traffic. It was pretty much scary to drive in Tehran streets. There were pictures og Khomeini and other Islamic leader all over the place, adding to the air pollution, as a visual pollution. People were pretty much sad or even angry. Most youths wanted to get out of the country etc etc etc. Yes, it just depends on what one wants to see when he/she goes to a place. The author has been too nice ;)


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Hey anonymous^2 You've got

by kyle (not verified) on

Hey anonymous^2

You've got to give the lady some credit. Holding an american passport should indicate to you that she has spent some pretty decent years away from africa and in the states.

But you are an iranian after all, and sometimes we just can't help but to make such statements as to redicule some poor guy from africa or anywhere else.


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Hey Guys: The Islamic republic compared to where the author of

by Anonymous^2 (not verified) on

this post comes from does indeed seems orderly!? Everything in life is relative!? Nadine Sultana d’Osman Han comes from the Central African Sahara where camels and the locals rule and roam the roads using according to their local laws (that is the law of jungle). So, of course, the Islamic Republic looks like Paris to them!?


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massoudA & Alborz; Why are

by Cyrus- (not verified) on

massoudA & Alborz;
Why are you barking at her for no reason ?
I happen to agree with her observation totaly.
I agree that us Iranians are mostly pesimistic.
I also agree that Most Turks are optimistic, based on my own observation of spending time in Turkey and Iran.
I have also spent time in NY and I do agree with her that New Yorkers are superficial and they consider their city to be the center of the universe.
You can't even spend canadian dollar that is now worth more that US$ in border towns, but in canada you can travel hundreds of miles away from the US/Canada border and they will take US$.
I know we have poor people in Iran, but given the disastrous economical situation in comparison with US economy it is not so bad.
Perhaps if we had no sanctions applied against us and our economy was somehow comparable with some other countries then Iranians would have had a better living standard.
If you like to give a helping hand to your fellow countrymen whom you worry so much about, then by all means take your skills to Iran and help employ 2 or 3 people. Sitting outside and complaining is not going to do you and the needy people in Iran any good.


Abarmard

I am not sure about the pupose

by Abarmard on

I am puzzled about this article! It's like my friend, whenever they asked him where he was from he would say, do you know where Italy is? then he would continue: I am from Iran. He had to bring the name "Italy" regardless of the point. If the author of this article said a bit about comparisons of his experiences in Iran and Turkey, then probably would've made more sense than just conclude the way he did.


Soheil Samouhi

parking

by Soheil Samouhi on

it must be a great city, you don't pay for parking..of course that's if you have enough gas to get whereever you need to.

What a limited vision.....


Midwesty

Dear Nadine

by Midwesty on

Thanks for sharing your expereince and welcome to Iranian culture. We look forward to seeing more of your fantastic expereince in Iran.


alborz

With all due respect...

by alborz on

...to your observations, I am alarmed that you have attempted to characterize a nation based on such contrived and superficial an experience as attending a conference involving foreign participants.  While the observations may indeed be factual you have not offered, and are not expected to have been able to offer, in this short entry, any substantive basis for your conclusions.  For that matter, the conclusions that you have offered are cryptic at best and of little to no value to the reader.  This obviously begs the question, as to what compelled you to write this entry.  Was it to inform the Iranian readers of their own culture?  Was it to make these same readers feel good at a time when many are not feeling good about the associations being made with them?

The comparisons made to NYC and Turkey, is another dimension to this entry that further highlights a lack of purpose.  The selective and yet un-even handedness in which the material was presented, and based on which conclusions were drawn, further diminished the value of this entry, for me.

As an example, while you may have not seen any homeless people in Tehran, in the form that you are accustomed to in NYC, you have failed to recognize that the socio-economic, cultural and religious organs of Iran creates its own class of impoverished and dejected members of society that upon close examination will make the homeless in NYC much better off in many regards and a preferable existence.  So what was your point in using this example?

So please, in the future, when you take on a lofty topic as such, and want to reduce it to a few golden nuggets for the readers to take away, give it the due attention it deserves or refrain from taking it on in the first place.

I am glad that you enjoyed your trip and that it did not have any complications.  In fact, one has to ask why both you and I have to note this at all!

Alborz

 


masoudA

What a joke !!

by masoudA on

What a Joke indeed.

So your first impression of Tehran was that people were orderly !!! Where do you live - Istanbul ?   what order ? 

Scarce police presence ?    Have you ever heared of Bassij and Hezbollah ?  

Dear Nadine - I wish you had enlightened us with what you had to say in the so called "Conference" and what impressed you about it.