Life After Dictatorship

Photo essay: First three weeks in Santiago, Chile

by Jahanshah Javid
14-Nov-2011
 
This is my third week in Chile and every day there's a new delightful experience. A lot of it has to do with being a tourist: you go to the best places a country has to offer and it's rare if you aren't awed, impressed or entertained. But the Chileans themselves are truly some of the nicest, helpful, no non-sense people I have encountered. The mild, sunny weather and constant blue skies this time of the year (it's spring here) helps lift the general mood too >>> Watch video clips
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Jahanshah Javid

Iran, off the map

by Jahanshah Javid on

Chileans cannot believe it when you tell them you're from Iran. It's like saying you're from the Moon. They cannot fathom why someone from that far could end up in their country :)


Disenchanted

JJ please let us know what Chileans think of Iran

by Disenchanted on

 

       and the current news surronding it! Do they know DK, AO, Fred, VPK and rest of IC gang? :-) 

       It must be spring/summer there.

 


maziar 58

chile

by maziar 58 on

jj khan thanks for sharing this beautiful journey with all

you're actually 10 yrs ahead of my time

when I'm planning to retire and live there or Argentina !

thanks to our American promisses!

Maziar


Red Wine

...

by Red Wine on

مطلبِ گفته شده شما بسیار صحیح است،فقط

یادآوری

کنیم که تعدادِ طرفدارانِ
سیاستِ ژنرال پینوشه بیشتر از آن است که تصور میشود.

سرزمینِ آمریکا یِ لاتین ،قدم به قدمش پر ارزش و پر بها است و به طورِ حتم
ایالات متحده هیچ وقت دست از این منطقه نخواهد کشید.اما پیشرفتِ کشورِ برزیل در
این میان ستودنیست.وقت کردید،حتما بدانجا سفر کنید.

نکته اشاره شده به مرحوم مصدق السلطنه نیز بسیار جالب است،کاش ایشان در انتخاب
دوست و شریک بیشتر دقت می‌‌فرمود و کاش پیروانِ محترمِ ایشان نیز در انقلابِ
سالِ ۵۷ شمسی‌،از اشتباهات این مردِ غیور درس می‌گرفتند.


Fariba Amini

شیلی

Fariba Amini


من با بعضی از صحبت های شما موافقم علت برکناری الینده در شیلی و اربنز در گواتمالا بخاطر ملی گرایی انها بود و این که الینده صنایع شیلی را ملی کرده بود و این درضدیت با خواستهای امریکا بود همانطور که در باره مصدق عمل کردند زمانی که او نفت را ملی کرد. 

و می دانستم که الینده خودکشی کرد ولی این که مردم شیلی طرفدار پینوشه بودند و یا هستند این را باید دید که چه درصدی ؟  من نظرم این است که مردم شیلی تا حدی توانسته اند که از گذشته درس گرفته و کشور خود را به جلو ببرند و متاسفانه ما هنوز در گذشته زندگی می کنیم 

درباره چه گوارا و دیگران هم با شما موافقم 

البته انها تفکرات سوسیالیستی داشتند ولی در واقع می خواستند که مردم امریکای لاتین را از فقر و بدبختی نجات دهند 

 یکی از برادران دالاس وکیل شرکت  یوناتد فروت بود که بزرگترین  وارد کنند ه  موز و دیگر محصولات از امریکای جنوبی بود و به خاطر همین هم انها همیشه مخالف هر گونه ملی شدن منابع این کشورها بودند

اخر سر همیشه بحث بر سر دلار است !  


Red Wine

...

by Red Wine on


جنابِ خانم امینی،شما سخت در اشتباه هستید اگر تصور می‌کنید که مردمِ شیلی
ژنرال پینوشه را از ریاست و سیاست خلع کردند ! ژنرال تا آخرین لحظه مملکت را
چرخانید و از حمایتِ احزابِ قدرتمند و قسمی از مردمِ شیلی برخوردار بود.ایشان
هنوز طرفدار دارند و دیدیم که به هیچ وجهی قاضی بالتازار گارسون با تمامِ قدرتش
نتوانست ایشان را به مورد بازخواست بکشاند (همین قاضی القضاتی که می‌گفتند از
بهترین‌ها است،فعلا سخت در ترس و هراس است و در اسپانیا ممنوع الکار است و چندین
اتهام به او زده شده است و به زودی محاکمه می‌‌شود.)

حدیثِ سالوادور آینده چیزی است که بسیار عجیب است و ناگفتنی زیاد دارد.همچو
حکایت چگوارا ! مردمانی هستند که تصور میکنند اینها افکارِ کمونیستی داشتند و
ایمانِ مارکسیستی اما با اندک توجه به نوشته ها،یاد‌ها و صحبتهایِ اینها میتوان
به این نتیجه رسید که اینان تنها انقلابیونی بودند که می‌‌خواستند آمریکا یِ
لاتین را از فقر و بی‌ عدالتی نجات دهند و هیچ گونه ارتباطی‌ با آن اصولِ سیاسی که
ما از آنها تصور میکردیم،ندارند .

در ضمن یاد آوری کنیم که آینده خود کشی کرده بوده،این را ما خود شاهد بودیم،در
هنگامی که اوایلِ زمستان ۲۰۱۰-۲۰۱۱،نبشِ قبرِ ایشان انجام و آزمایشاتی دیگر
انجام شد و مسئولینِ امر به این نتیجه رسیدند که ایشان با طپانچه خود خودکشی کرده
است.

 


Fariba Amini

Bravo

by Fariba Amini on

JJ, I am envious of you going to Chile but have a great time.  Bravo for traveling the world. 

Imagine, Allende was toppled and they had a vicious dictatorship under Pinochet who ruled with an iron fist. Thousands disappared and hundreds tortured. 

But slowly, Chileans were able to push the dictator out and re-build their country.

We are still way behind and we boast, and boast....

Where have we gone wrong?Or is it always somebody else's fault? 


default

Pictorial Travelogue

by Mahvash Shahegh on

 

Wonderful travelogue, Jahanshah. You took us all with you in your trip and adventure.

Wish I were there in person as well:)


Monda

Connection is there!

by Monda on

This is your nicest photo essays so far, if I may?

When I saw your first report, I felt 'excluded' from the locals. But this one shows the real picture. There's definitely still a socialistic tone to this place, after all the years of dictatorship abuse. I could feel your connection with the culture. 

The street murals are seriously Amazing! As are the artwork at the station! And I could get the smell and sounds and tastes at the fruit and fish markets!

I hope you extend your stay at least 'til the toots ripen... And do check out Ms. Connelly's dance studio too : ) 

The dogs though... looking so lethargic! So sad to see! Not even excited by your ass offering! Now that's serious depression if you asked me.

I wonder if Simon's owner is the one who hung that letter and house key by the statute of Mary. Well I do hope Simon's found by now.

Being an 'expat communities' reader/ junkie, I find your photo essay the best of all that I have seen and read about Chile. Real, vibrant and serene... The Chilean department of tourism owes you big time Jahanshah! (Well maybe aside Bourdine :)

Stay well and happy to share with us, more... As long as the act of recording wouldn't take away from your realtime connections/ experiences.

Btw, your roasted chicken looks mouthwateringly good! The bird looks organic, (hormoneless & antibiotic-less)... Yum! Your adas polo... well it turned out like the ones i started off cooking in college. it's all about practice as you well know... just wondering if it had enough spices and oil. 


Red Wine

...

by Red Wine on

یادمان نرود که اولین باغ‌هایِ انگور در سرزمین‌هایِ آمریکایِ لاتین در همین سانتیاگو،به دست اسپانیولیها،در قرن ۱۶ میلادی کاشته و برداشته شد.این انگور نژادی بس دیرین و بس خوش رنگ و آب دارد.شرابِ شیلی ، از نوعِ قرمزِ آن،مرلوت  Merlot را به شما توصیه می‌کنیم .

محلاتِ نزدیک به مرکزِ شهر،منطقه مدرن و باسازی شده سانتیاگو بسیار زیبا و نسبتا ارزانتر است تا دگر پایتخت‌هایِ دگرِ آمریکایِ جنوبی (سائو پولو و بوئنوس آیرس گرانتر هستند) .

سفارشاتِ دیگر را قبلا به شما کرده ایم،تنها خواستیم یادآوری کنیم که حتما سریع به مزارِ سالوادور آینده (Salvador Allende) بزنید .در زمستانِ پیش،برایِ بازنگری و چگونگی‌ِ مرگ ایشان،ما در آنجا بودیم.

همیشه خوش باشید.

 


comments

Thank you.

by comments on

(a) The cooking is fine, the problem was the the rice selection.  If they had basmati rice I could have done this and that :)

(b) The photos are beautiful and in detailed perfection.  I can easily tell everybody that I went to Chile when I come back from campling next time.

(c) I would suggest dividing photo essays to 3 or more, and present them in different times.  I had to take a day off to watch all photos carefully!

(d) sobbing man really touched me.  I wish I was there and could have helped.

(f) I also eat the Tahdig at the end!

"It's not about what we believe. It's more about how we behave and influence." Comments


Jahanshah Javid

I'm getting there!

by Jahanshah Javid on

Thanks Nazy, Jason, Esfand, Anahid and Faramarz!

My cooking is nothing special, but I am improving, bekhoda :)

Faramarz, the wine here is so good and so inexpensive relative to the quality.


Faramarz

Great Ceviche and Fish Soup

by Faramarz on

Thanks for the pictures JJ. It looks like you are having a great time and the weather looks awesome.

Your food needs some work, especially the presentation.

I liked the picture of Jesus over your bed and the bottle of wine on the table next to the bed. You got all the bases covered!

Check out Anthony Bourdain's episode on Chile if you are looking for some food ideas.

 


Anahid Hojjati

Esfand jan, how is your rice?

by Anahid Hojjati on

hala shoma takhfeef bede. I don't know if you are married or not but if you are, don't criticize cooking skills of your wife. Actually do if you want, it is between you and wifey but seriously mazeh is the most important, maybe adas polo khooshmazeh bood.


Esfand Aashena

No basmati rice in Chile?!

by Esfand Aashena on

I disgaree with jasonrobardas, the chicken looks appetizing but the addas polo is more like addas shefte, not to mention burned addas!  You can't use Uncle Ben's rice for addas polo!  Also, the fryer you used for the chicken is not for this use in the oven!

The pictures look very good.  No front picture of the coffee lady?!  Did she look bad from the front, so you didn't post a pic?!

Hope to see more pictures. 

Everything is sacred


jasonrobardas

To our brave adventurer,....

by jasonrobardas on

the polo Adas looks okay but you sure burned the chicken...

   Enjoyed all the interesting  photos and their descriptions .......Out of intellectual curiosity, we are waiting impatiently to see the photos of  your  traditional visit to the red district ( if there is one)........

    Good luck with the rest of the trip...Enjoy...and thanks for posting these  great pictures.


Nazy Kaviani

Lovely!

by Nazy Kaviani on

Thanks for the excellent photo essay. Such a lively and colorful place! I loved everything about the market and the food. Looking at the peaceful people in search of a livelihood, knowledge, and random and simple joys of life gives me hope about Iran's future. Chileans endured so much pain and loss during their country's dark years. There is hope for all nations. Thanks so much for taking us there with yourself, Jahanshah.