Scent of Sangak

Photo essay

by Ali Moayedian
11-Jul-2008
 

Sangak is one of the main traditional breads in Iran. It is made in a gas fired brick oven. The baker, called Shater in Iran, will mix make the dough every day and usually makes the bread three times daily starting in the early mornings.

During our previous trip to Iran in summer of 2002, I had paid a visit to the local bakery with my father and taken pictures from the place and the Shater. This time around, equipped with a better camera, I mentioned to my father that we should take more pictures from the bakery. And without wasting any time, the next morning he had promised the Shater that I'd be there to take pictures J  And from that day on, my father pressed me every day that we should go do it. But somehow things wouldn't work out and I kept pushing the plan to the next day.

As we kept closer to our departure date, my father kept reminding me every day about the photo shoot. He was really worried the Shater may become unhappy with him. And believe me you want to be in good standing with high profile people like the Shater in Iran. When it comes to Sangak, one cannot take these things lightly as it is one of the critical lifelines for the Iranians. What we are talking about is a steady and high quality flow of Sangaks, and with occasional splashing of sesame seeds!!

So finally I gave in and the last day of our trip we made the historical visit to the Sangak bakery. It seemed time hadn't moved since my last trip there five years earlier. The faithful Shater was still going and going. While in our high tech jobs we keep jamming more transistors on chips every year, and we keep shrinking the geometries, the Sangak was still the same old Sangak.  It hadn't grown or shrunk. But the looks and the aroma were still as great as ever.

I chatted with the Shater a bit too. He said his name is Hassan Sabahi (I hope I have it right since I waited so long to write this). He then said, very proudly, that recently they had shot videos of his bakery to show abroad. But since he was really busy, I had to minimize the interruption. I took some pictures which I promised him to publish them on the internet. We then left happily with a few fresh Sangaks which I can promise you we put to good use with feta cheese and sour cherry jam J  As they say in Iran: "wish you were there too!"

First published in Payvand.com

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Seems everyone enjoyed the

by Ali Moayedian (not verified) on Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:01 AM PDT

Seems everyone enjoyed the sight of Sangaki... Too bad the real Sangags are out of reach for most of us right now :-(

BTW, the special effects were added by Mahyar Rahmatian using photoshop. Also, higher resolution versions of the images are available for viewing here: //sangak.imagemosaic.com/


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ThePope

Aaghaay-e Majid Khaan

by ThePope on Sun Jul 13, 2008 09:56 PM PDT

I'm sure you speak and understand Persian (farsi or parsi) perfectly with all its slang terms, characteristic language of different type of people and their different ways of saying things.

As you know the Persian (farsi) "types" (ravesh-e goftaar and not accent) of language differ from a region to another in Iran...

I wrote that last phrase in a slang tehrani "type" of talking. It's a kind of Tehrani ghetto "lingo". NO need to be defensive or get offended. Tehran itself has lots of variety of informal languages. As an ex., one can say didim instead of didam, like: .......didim baabaa (and only refering to himself).

Unfortunately here online, I just can't give the right expample(s) that comes in my mind cuz of coarse...

Anyway, just for the record and to make you feel better ghorbaan, I was not khodaayi nakardeh refering to hazrat-e aali. Or anyone else...

 


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Majid

دوست عزیز آاقای پاپ

Majid
Sun Jul 13, 2008 06:22 PM PDT

 

 

بهتر بود جمله آخر رو به صورت مفرد می نوشتی ( خطاب به خودت فقط)

 


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sanazi

Add

by sanazi on Sun Jul 13, 2008 02:17 PM PDT

aab zereshki/abb aalbaaloo froosh to the list...


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thanks ali, last time i went

by azadi55 (not verified) on Sun Jul 13, 2008 08:07 AM PDT

thanks ali,

last time i went to iran, when I arrived, on the way from airport to my parent's home I asked my dad to stop by a babrbari noonvai, the shuter had just made some fresh hot barbari and when I put it in my mouth I almost cried of joy.

btw, how do you manage to get some parts of the pictures in black and white and some parts in color, do you use a photoshop filter for that?


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javaneh29

Torture .. you should be me!

by javaneh29 on Sun Jul 13, 2008 07:13 AM PDT

Yes really.. I have a condition called coeliacs disease which means I cant eat anything made from wheat, barley or oats and that includes all nan. I become very ill if i do.

It is hellish not to be able to eat nan when I see everyone else enjoying it. But I have the most wonderful man who makes fresh wheat free nan for me so that I can at least have some substitute.

It is a long time since I was ate any real nan but i love the smell. Nan barbary with asal ... mmmmmm  heavenly memories.

Javaneh


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ThePope

Majid, here's a few more for THE list

by ThePope on Sun Jul 13, 2008 03:58 AM PDT

Yeah, let me see;

-baaghaali froosh

-charkh-e falaki

-faaloodeh-yi

-baadkoonaki

-namaki (still very active!)

-kot shalvaari

-aab-e hoz kesh !!

-tofang saachmeyi (remember those)

-pir-e zan khafeh kon-o,,,, in harfaa...

-And the old shahr-e farangeh,,,, az hameh rangeh...

The one(s) I hated the most were the "sabzi froosh (vaaneti)", with their damn distorted loudspeakers, who always came in the afternoon when everyone was sleeping... (except me. I got busted with our neigh.......cuz of them! )

ps: yaa kheyli bikaarim, yaa jedi jedi kos khol shodim!!! It's both!


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Majid

pic # 3

by Majid on Sat Jul 12, 2008 07:04 PM PDT

ساعت شماطه روی دیوار یادتون هست؟ مارکش سه ستاره بود؟


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Majid

Asnaaf

by Majid on Sat Jul 12, 2008 06:28 PM PDT

Sarraafs and mobile bazzaazees"fabric sellers" were jews (remember modified bicycles which were equipped with a little gas engines) ?

Gerdoo-ee, Laboo-ee and seeraabi frooshs were Tehroonis.

Haseer baafs also were Tehroonis.

Ostovaars were Mazlaghaanis (Gar nabaashad Mazlaghaan, artesh nabaashad dar jahaan)...LOL

..........Compelete or correct the list please.

 


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Asnaaf

by 135 (not verified) on Sat Jul 12, 2008 12:18 PM PDT

.
.

Sangakis were Mash'hadi
Barabaris were Tork
Taftoonis were Tehrani(of course in Tehran)
Lavaashis were ?
Salmoonis were Rashti
Baghalis were Shabastari or Daryani
Kababis were Tehrani(ref. to taftoonis)
Ghannadis were Yazi, Esfahani or Kermani or ... or !!

Do you remeber Lahaafdoozis on their bikes shouting;
Ooy Laaaaaf doozi!
I looooove suzi!

Or koo'dis; A guy with a short version of camels caravan(2or3) selling Pesh'gel.

Kaase Boshghaabees ...

...


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ebi amirhosseini

Dear Ali M !

by ebi amirhosseini on Sat Jul 12, 2008 11:35 AM PDT

Thanks,but why do you torture us with  these lovely pictures!! Since you posted them,Everyday I take a look at them & feel starved,even when I'm 100% full!!.

A few months ago,back in Iran after years,for days I only ate fresh Barbary or Sangak (which my dear Dad bought me daily) with either Lighvaan cheese or Maaste kisehee.Everybody thought either I'm Crazy or suffer from Diarriha !!.

best Wishes


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Jahanshah Javid

Your comment was not published?

by Jahanshah Javid on Sat Jul 12, 2008 08:16 AM PDT

There was at least one anonymous comment for this posting which I deleted by mistake when I woke up Saturday morning. Instead of clicking on "approve", I deleted a whole list of comments for various articles.

Kheyli bebakhsheed.

Please repost.


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Mona 19

Mr.Moayedian...

by Mona 19 on Fri Jul 11, 2008 08:49 PM PDT

Few but GREAT pictures...nothing more tastier than noneh sangak dagh va panir ba chai shireen for breakfast...

Mona ;)


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Shabnam_Ghayour

Nothing better...

by Shabnam_Ghayour on Fri Jul 11, 2008 04:40 PM PDT

Than a hot and crispy noon-e-taaftoon with plump doughy edges, with a thick, fat, juicy skewer of kabab koobideh wrapped up in the noon, like a baby in a blanket.  HEAVEN.  Who could ask for more?


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Lucky

by Mehran-001 (not verified) on Fri Jul 11, 2008 04:32 PM PDT

You are so cruel. I am drooling here.


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