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You think you’ll find tuna on a bagel in Iran?” my assistant Kathy asked as I shut down my computer for the next three weeks. I laughed. Finding my favorite lunch was the least of my concerns. I was, after all, traveling to a country that President Bush identified as one-third of the Axis of Evil. I'd wanted to visit Iran for years to view its ancient monuments and to understand this country that was closed off to Americans for a generation. [Silde show]