Photo caption: I chose this picture from the many pictures of Darband to represent Shemraan and Darband because it is an old famous restaurant by the stream running through Darband. It still has the “Darband Restaurant” sign on the building but the sign on the street says “Welcome to the Diplomatic Italian Restaurant”. When I was a kid this place was always so mystical. I now kick myself for not going there during my visits. Never in Pahlavi era either. So next time it is one of the must go to places!
Every big city has a ‘go to place’ for walking around, restaurants, dating places and general all around fun and good time. In Miami it is South Beach, in NY it is Time Square, in Washington DC it is Georgetown, in Los Angeles it is Santa Monica and in Tehran it is Shemraan or as some call it Shemroon!
I have so many memories from Shemroon old and new but by far my best memories are when I was a kid in the 70s. Shemroon is north of Tehran and just under mountains. The most famous part of Shemroon is Darband and many go hiking there starting from the foot of the mountains from the old Boy Scout Statue starting point.
Shemroon and Darband lets you get away from it all. Our most famous boy of Shemroon at i.com is our own Red Wine and I’m writing this blog partly because of him! He boasts so much about Shemroon and has so many stories that I thought to write something and poke him to say something about Shemroon again! What is your best memory?
I had an uncle and an aunt living in Shemroon in their modest homes and while their home wasn’t as big as many Shemroon homes it was large enough to have a front yard with the standard fruit trees and beautiful gardens. Other than visiting them and sometimes staying over, we would go to Shemroon any chance we’d get. I remember either stopping by the Yekta ice cream shop or on our way back. Delicious ice creams and their trademark Jello toppings!
Shemroon was also home to Shah’s palace in Darband. Reza Shah and Mohammad Reza both had summer homes there and while we couldn’t get close in 70s, long and tall surrounding walls always made us imagine would it’d be like inside. After the revolution they eventually opened it to public and it is now a museum. I’ve visited it twice.
When you go inside you get a better idea that while general public had Darband and their kabob stands, Shah’s family and guests were having a ball and had the best part of Darband to themselves! When you go to the balconies you realize that they had the most beautiful unobstructed views of the mountains, now blocked by unregulated apartment hi rises built on mountains!
I’d say Darband is still as much fun as it was before but you can’t escape the Islamic restrictions. Every now and then you hear regime’s goons come to Darband to hassle young people and their romantic outings. People always go back and make Darband what it was always meant to be.
Shemroon as a whole has changed much more than Darband and Tajrish bazaar is now much more crowded and very much different. They’re building a metro station there and have also moved part of old Tehran’s bazaar to Tajrish.
Shemroon and Darband has a special place in Tehranis’ hearts and while Tehran is now a mega polis with its huge population fluctuating day and night like NYC and it is not easy for everyone to get to Darband, everyone goes there even if it is for one night only. It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that every married Tehrani couple had been to Darband at least once while courting each other. Everyone wants to visit and know about the famous Shemroon Nights!
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We're all bache mahal & we didn't know?! Ice Palace, Hatam ;-)
by Anonymouse on Thu Sep 17, 2009 05:16 AM PDTI don't remember ever going inside Kakhe Yakh (Ice Palace) but I remember the sign on the building. It was a big Oksana Bayool :-) in ballet/ice skate costume and it was mystical too, like Darband Restaurant's picture in this blog.
Shahr-e Farang cinema and Park saei and surrounding area was nice too. The area was parallel and close to Pahlavi. Although, I think Abbas Abad where Anahid is talking about was a bit northern, like she says considered shomal shahr at the time. I think Shahr-e Farang cinema was border between central and shomal shahr.
Shahr-e Farang cinema is now a BIG movie multiplex called Azadi cinema and it has several floors and is another 'go to place' now. It was recently renovated and opened, like 1 year or 2 ago.
Kabobi Hatam was very good, I remember all the juicy and lemony jojeh kabobs! I have NEVER had good jojeh kabob since Hatam. I've had many (like peruvian for example) variations but never like Hatam.
Our memories are always precious but sometimes when you go back to those places you sink! Like many years ago, right after revolution I went for a short visit and rushed to Darband for some liver kabobs. Once we got there and got a takht by the stream, I was shocked to see all the trash and debris floating around. It left me a bad memory and it wasn't until recently when I went back and saw they've cleaned it up a lot.
While Tehran is not like before, I really believe it is people who make these places and these memories and they're still there and it is such a joy to walk in these streets and rub shoulders with your hamvatans. I love it. No matter the Iranian gentleman-ness! I become one of them ;-)
Everything is sacred.
yes, Shushtari, I remember Hatam and Gorbehayash
by Anahid Hojjati on Wed Sep 16, 2009 10:04 PM PDTWe used to go to Hatam too. Place was nice and there were many cats in that place. Park Saee was popular with young girls and boys who studied for their tests over there and also had a good time with their boyfriends or girlfriends over there. My aunt lived on Vozara.
yadesh bekheir....
by shushtari on Wed Sep 16, 2009 09:42 PM PDTi grew up in ahwaz, but I used to visit my grandparents on 'KHYABOON VOZARA' we used to hang out at park-e-saee and meeydoone arjantine!
I also remember in the summer of 1977 we were driving to go to dinner on a warm night on pahlavi ave.....it was packed and people were having a blast....and we pulled in to 'JOOJE KABABE HATAM' and we saw behrouz vosoughi in a white mercedes 450sl.....I never forget that car!
the goddamn akhoonds ruined everything....iran would have been a paradise by now had they exterminated the akhoonds
we shall get our homeland back though.....that is for sure!
Thanks Bahram. You're
by desi on Wed Sep 16, 2009 08:49 PM PDTThanks Bahram. You're right! Wow! More skating memories. I bet we did skate at the same venues.
کاخ یخ
bahram9821Wed Sep 16, 2009 08:38 PM PDT
I think it was called Kakheh Yakh, near midan vanak.
Sorry anonymouse I was
by desi on Wed Sep 16, 2009 08:19 PM PDTSorry anonymouse I was unfortunately spared from Iranian gentleman-ness in my 20's. I was in the US. I'm sure my parents wished I was spared American gentleman-ness though. Do you guys remember that place that had the ice-skating rink and the up-stairs outdoor pool? What area of town was that?
Abbas Abadiha , help me out, I have not been back for 26 years
by Anahid Hojjati on Wed Sep 16, 2009 06:34 PM PDTEbi jan, I have not been back for long time. Natalie was somewhere near Mahnaz and Palizzi and Sohrevardi (Farah Sabegh). However, someone who has been there more recently can help out.
Dear Anonymouse, maybe I will do a blog about my memories of growing up in Abbas Abad in 1970s in a few days. It was a nice area to live. Not too rich and not too far from center of Tehran. Now I guess, Abbas Abad is considered central. Back then it was considered "Shomal Shahr", not as Shomal as Shemraan but still Shomal (northern).
Anahid Jaan
by ebi amirhosseini on Wed Sep 16, 2009 05:41 PM PDTI remember "Ghanaadi Nancy" & its upstair hang out "Teriaa" accross shahre farang cinema,but where was Natalie??
Ebi aka Haaji
Anahid I have memories of Park-e Saei but please write the rest
by Anonymouse on Wed Sep 16, 2009 04:52 PM PDTThis blog in general was about a "place to go" for the large population. We all have our neighborhoods and our favorite places.
I know Park Saei and some about shar gheseh and Natalie bakery. I also remember FunFar which may mean Fun is Far from here! It was really fun though with all the cars and big merry go rounds. Hamburgers were also new items at the time and they were delicious. I think now they are just as delicious but they are not "new". Back then they were just intrdouced to us and we had nothing else to compare them to.
Everything is sacred.
Desi so you were not exposed to Iranian gentleman-ness?!
by Anonymouse on Wed Sep 16, 2009 04:46 PM PDTDid you have the honor of experiecing Iranian gentleman-ness later in your teens and 20s or were you spared?!
We Iranian men have a "unique" way of showing our interest, like whistling or honking a car's horn! ;-)
Everything is sacred.
کسی گفت
capt_ayhabWed Sep 16, 2009 02:11 PM PDT
کسی گفت بولینگ عبدو؟
یادش خوش که چه گناهان کبیره ما اونجا مرتکب شدیم :)
-YT
Dear Anonymouse, I enjoyed your blog about Shemraan now someone
by Anahid Hojjati on Wed Sep 16, 2009 01:34 PM PDTI enjoyed your blog since while growing up in Tehran, I had my share of visits to Shemraan with family. Now I like someone to do a blog like this for Abbas Abad. There were many fun places in Abbas Abad such as movie theatres "shahre Farang" and "shahr Gheseh", "Park Saii", ghanadi Natalie and many more locations.
I don't remember the lass
by desi on Wed Sep 16, 2009 01:20 PM PDTI don't remember the lass bazy at boling abdo but then again I was only 10 and pretty clueless. I do remember my 11th birthday party at the roller rink and when they announced couples skating my father had me sit that one out.
...
by Red Wine on Wed Sep 16, 2009 09:16 AM PDTبولینگ عبدو را خوب به یادمان هست.
خلق الله در آنجا همه کاری انجام میداد به غیر از بولینگ !!! با این حال هر چقدر لاس میزدی،قضیه به رختخواب کشیده نمیشد ! در آن زمان دخترا سخت گیر بودند و فوقش یک مقدار خانوم را میمالوندی و تمام !
Bowling-e Abdo may still be around. Maybe the name is changed
by Anonymouse on Wed Sep 16, 2009 04:52 AM PDTI remember in my last visit a sign that said that place being a billiard or bowling or something. Pool halls are now common in Iran, they opened them during Khatami.
I remember Abdo too, went there 2 or 3 times only but it was fun and Bahram is right, a "pick up" place! It was known for it although as young as we were picking up girls meant "winking" at best! LOL! Older guys in their late teens or 20s played for keeps though ;-)
Swimming classes and places are also popular for kids in the summer. Don't forget Iran's summer for school kids is a cool full 3 months!
Everything is sacred.
Bowling Abdo
by bahram9821 on Tue Sep 15, 2009 10:10 PM PDTMy favorite memory of
by desi on Tue Sep 15, 2009 09:34 PM PDTMy favorite memory of Shemran was Bowling Abdol which was a block from my house. I loved just being able to walk their with my friends after school to roller skate and swim. I wonder what ever happened to that place.
Red Wine jaan maybe it was Chatnooga once, or nearby
by Anonymouse on Tue Sep 15, 2009 05:41 PM PDTI think it may have been chatanooga once or maybe a part of it. Maybe like me you didn't go inside either.
Anyway, yes they could've done a lot beter to Shemroon but what else is new?! All I can say it is still there and people love it just as much.
Everything is sacred.
...
by Red Wine on Tue Sep 15, 2009 04:44 PM PDTبه نظر اشنا میاید به خصوص وقتی که در ویدئو میبینم ... ما در آن زمان بیشتر مشتری چاتانوگا بودیم !
صحبتهای شما درست است ولی به هر جهت دلیل نمیشود شهر را آنجور که پهلوی خراب کرد و اینجور که آخوند خراب میکند را قبول کرد !
شمیرانات باید به هم طریق سابق باقی میماند،نه آنکه ساختمانهای قدیمی،درختها و بقیه را خراب کنند و صرف مدرن سازی شهر کثیف تهران کنند.
حیف از آن شمیران و حیف از آن همه لطف و صفای آن ! حالا هر چوبک فروش و چادر گل باقالی به سری آماده آنجا و ادعا شمیرانی بودن میکند،داد از که زنم که دیگر صدایم به گوش نمیرسد !
صد سال سیاه من و بقیه اهل اصلی شریف آنجا نمیخواستیم که انان اینجور با شمیران کنند... لعنت بر آنان باد !
Yadesh khosh
by capt_ayhab on Tue Sep 15, 2009 02:52 PM PDTDuring university time in Vatan[seems like 1000 years ago] Every Friday at 4 AM we met at Meydone Tajrish. About 20 close friends of both genders. took walk to Darband, had [Kaleh Pacheh] for breakfast, then started the track.
By 12ish we were usually lunching at 1st shelter. Short nap, and some play , then headed back for early Deezy/ or Kabab and Aragh dinner at a ghahveh khuneh in darband.
God I miss it so much.
-YT
You can see Darband Restaurant in this clip! Thanks Bahram!
by Anonymouse on Tue Sep 15, 2009 02:51 PM PDT//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qvh8WUZyEAk
You can see Darband Restaurant in this clip from 1:14 - 1:30. It is the restaurant on the left and that is by the road and especially at nights or evenings it was mystic.
Most other restaurants are at the end of the road where you'd get off buses or shuttles or your own car.
From the start of the clip you can also see the white walls (with broken glasses sticking out on top of them for security) on the left hand side where it was Shah's palace. A lot of real estate.
Everything is sacred.
شبهاي دربند
bahram9821Tue Sep 15, 2009 01:04 PM PDT
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLdmwCyrPLU
به ياد دربند
bahram9821Tue Sep 15, 2009 12:58 PM PDT
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qvh8WUZyEAk
Nostalgia
by Maryam Hojjat on Tue Sep 15, 2009 12:13 PM PDTI missed everything in IRAN not only Shemiran but every where.
Payandeh IRAN & IRANIANs
Red Wine jaan Karaj is now joined w/ Tehran much less Shemroon!
by Anonymouse on Tue Sep 15, 2009 11:00 AM PDTRed Wine jaan population growth knows no boundaries. You can't really expect Shemroon to have been left alone as a remote town or village forever.
While your memories are of a past with vast open spaces and little crowds, sooner or later that openness would have had to be given way to population growth. Just in the past 30 years everywhere in the world has experienced accelerated growth. Shemroon is still an expensive part of town and compared to other parts of Tehran is still not that crowded.
Here in America places where they had farms are now technology centers and campuses. Everyone has a cell phone and running somewhere!
Anyway, I sometimes wonder how do Pahlavi's first family feel when they see photos of their palace right here in i.com. They probably want to go back too but they have to wait in line! Last in line, in fact!
I don't know your specific circumstances but I wish you can go back and have a visit and breath Shemroon's air. There may be ways, you just have to explore it more. Do you remember this restaurant on top of the hill and by the stream? Have you ever eaten there?
Everything is sacred.
...
by Red Wine on Tue Sep 15, 2009 10:45 AM PDTسالهاست که به دور از خانه افتاده ایم و در حسرت دیدار دوباره شمیران، روزها را میشماریم.چه بد کردند آنان که ما را از خانه،از آن بهشت برین گریزان کردند.
سالهاست که از ندیدن کوچه خاکیهای شمیران،منظریه،اجودانیه و اقدسیه دلمان به تاب و تب افتاده است و هیچ گریزی زه ناله نیست.
در این سرزمین غریب،از شدت بی نامی،مردیم و هر روزمان شب شد و هر شبمان روز بی آنکه خود دانیم.
ازینکه از شمیران یاد کردید،کمال تشکر را دارم.
داستان بنده و خانواده بنده به سالهای بسیار دور بر میگردد،هم بنده هم خان بابا ،هم خان والا،هر سه زاده شمیرانات هستیم و رگ و ریشه عمیق در آن داریم.
تمام خاطرات من مربوط به خانه ما،عمارت خانوادگی ما مربوط میشود که متاسفانه به دست نا اهلان افتاد و از بین رفت و شنیدیم که آنجا را به دستگاه دستگاه قوطی کبریت مبدل کردند.لعنت بر آنها که این چنین با سرزمین ما کردند.
عمارت ما همیشه پر از مهمان بود و انبوه از حادثه ،حکایت و حماسه .
در طول سالها،بنده تلاش کردم که آن چیزها را یاد داشت کنم و در وقتی مناسب،منتشر !
شمیران همیشه از تهران جدا بود،منطقه سرد سیر و خوش آب و هوا که دهات و قریههای فراوانی در آنجا وجود داشتند که در طول تاریخ به دلایل فراوان از بین رفتند و بیشتر جذب تهران شدند.
با آمدن خاندان میر پنج،کم کم شمیران به تهران متصل شد و باعث آزار ما شد ! خودا از سر ایشان هم نگذارد که اینجور باعث خرابی محله ما شد... هر دو ! هم تاج به سران پهلوی و هم اخوندکهای بیابانی !