On a bicycle. In Iran.

After my visit to the men’s Dervish ceremony I was so intrigued that I wanted to know if the same ceremony for women exists. The answer was easy to find: Yes, they do have these same ceremonies, and my Dervish friend was happy to arrange a visit. He let me know that photos and video of women however, are strictly forbidden. No probs…. My translator friend was busy teaching that night so I went by myself. Since I now generally understood what the chants for men were, and the rough gist of things, I thought I would get about half of what was happening. When I arrived to the door where the ceremony would be held a pregnant lady answered, looking very suspiciously at me. This went on until they found the person my friend had spoken to. I then washed my feet, hands and face and entered the prayer hall, which was already in the midst of the 1st or 2nd prayer. I was sat in the middle of the room instead of around the parameter of the room; so instead of being able to watch everyone else I was the one who everyone could watch. As I sat there feeling self-conscious, silly and out of place, a lady came up to me with tea and sugar. I then noticed I was the only one drinking tea. After another prayer the head of the lady’s group came up to me & said “leader” and “welcome.” She gave me a few enthusiastic kisses and handshakes. Then at least a dozen other elders came up, extending the same greeting. Three teenage girls then came and sat facing me- the opposite direction of how everyone else was sitting. They stared at me and smiled shyly.

Finally someone brought me to the side of the room, so I felt less the center of the action, thanks be to Allah! I was followed by my teenage entourage and their skimpy mantous and headscarves. Even though I was told photography was forbidden, they started taking photos and video of me! More people came over to welcome me, often covering one or both eyes which is a sign of a respectful hearty welcome. During this, I kept thinking how ridiculous it is that so many times my country’s media tries to portray these people (Muslims) as monsters- they could not have been more welcoming or kind!

During the prayer part I mumbled what I could but then reverted to doing did what I do when I go to Catholic church and do not know the words everyone is following along with: I look around the room and check people out. There were women of all ages, styles and sizes. Traditional Kurdish ladies in their sparkly wear, ladies in black chadors, young folks in hip mantous, new moms with their squealing babies. Once in a while a woman clad all in white would shout out in ecstasy reaching her hands for the heavens. They brought me cold water and then some sweets. I wish I had had my video camera because again, I kept wanting to ask the folks back home “does this look like religious fundamentalism and oppression to you?”

After the prayers we got to the really good stuff- the part where I wondered if it will be as free and primal as what the men had? The head of the group came over and brought me to the side of the room with the head-bangers. That was good because in my day I had had some experience in that… but the Daft- I do not know how to play & from what I have seen these folks are good- it seems to come very naturally to them. The Daft players started playing as a 30-something woman in white played a different smaller but louder drum and acted as leader with the loudest and strongest voice. Standing opposite of 20 women of all sorts like this was definitely an image of strength and feminine spirit, not oppression or passivity. We started singing and I, along with others started thrusting our head, hair and torsos first forward, bending at the waist, and then back upright standing upright, to the rhythm of the drumming. Women quickly ended up going into trance and dancing every-which-way in the center of the room. Women who earlier looked, looks-wise, round-faced and plain then revealed shapely faces, figures and HAIR. Many reaching their waist, wavy, blond, black alike. The head of the group revealed waist length wavy auburn hair, and a California hippie-like face. As women moved about I kept head banging but watching what was happening on my way up. About one or two women were designated as “hair monitors” -they walked around removing lady’s head coverings as they became loose, undoing any hair-ties so hair could flow freely. They also made sure that noone banged into anyone else, accidentally head-butting or worse… It was more far out than any Woodstock video I have ever seen. Some frantically shook their heads like they were in a mosh pit. It had to hurt the next day. It was nothing I had ever expected to see- ladies took rest leaning into one another hugging, and holding one another. Some passed out (the head banging will do that to you for sure), as others stepped in to hold them, rubbing their skin, and caressing their faces. I thought that it must be a gigantic release after being fairly well maintained and caring for others rather than one’s self all week.

After 45 minutes I was one of the last ones standing. I was so tuned into what was going on around me that there was no way I could go into any sort of trance. It was truly unlike anything I had ever seen before and definitely the most memorable experience here (forget the men’s ceremony- that was tame in comparison, especially considering these were women!!!). As the trance was winding down, the leader came up, hugged me and then held me close like a mom does her child for a good five minutes. She said a bunch of things to me which I did not understand. Another photo and film shoot ensued after the ceremony, and I had to dodge about 20 dinner invites. I took a few pix too afterwards but you can barely tell what had just occurred. I understand why they keep photography & video forbidden, but I do think it is very important for the world to know the power, the strength and the genuine kindness of these particular Muslim women.

Attached is a youtube video on Female Dervishes of Kurdistan- quite a coincidence! I did not record any sound bites, but i have a consolation prize/recording of a co-ed band at a swank party in Tehran for Ali’s birthday instead!!!