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One was a monumental park that commemorated the visit of the former Georgian President Eduard Shevardnadze on the occasion of President Aliyev’s 75th birthday in 1998.
There was still empty land to be used here, but already recent landmarks were being replaced as they became historically outdated.
Glossy advertisement on the boards fencing off the sites promised the future of Baku in luxury apartments.
Closer to the Hyatt on the other side of town I walked through streets of substantial residential construction sites.
At this location, a massive new Hilton Hotel looking out to the Caspian on one edge of the boulevard, and a just-completed shiny indoor shopping mall, complete with escalators, on the other edge, stood out as commercial signs of the new prosperous era.
This street was separated from the Baku Bay in the Caspian by a wide strip of park called People’s (Milli) Park, with palm trees, acacias and rhododendrons. A long board walk marked the edge of the sea shore.
On the other side of the Old Town was another boulevard lined with still more Art Nouveau buildings of the early 20th Century oil barons
Commemorating the establishment of the independent Azerbaijan Democratic Republic (1918-21) by reciting its “Aqdnama (Convention or “National Charter”) under its Coats of Arms which consisted of an 8-sided star said to be for the eight branches of the Turkic peoples, with a fire symbol inside the star, referring to the land’s many open fires from its gas wells.
The public bathhouses (hamam), which also provided the traditional massage services, hung their towels on the sidewalks to dry.
Small fruit (mivah) shops did a brisk business selling grapes, watermelon, pears, pomegranate and produce such as tomatoes, potatoes, and cabbage.
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