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These gold plated plates also, and that picnic box, silver samovar, the gramophone. These all had the Nobel logos and that is how we looked for them.
The guide at the Nobles’ Villa continued: “All the furniture you see in this house belonged to the Noble family. The locals took the Villa’s furniture in their houses and when times got hard, started selling them. Their foreign buyers then sold the furniture in public auction. Our experts began looking around the world in 2005, to collect the Nobles’ belongings. The collection in the next room is from this house’s “Oriental Room”.
The temple being the logo of the Nobels’ company. This was in accord with “the belief that the ancient Zoroastrian inhabitants of this area used the oil oozing out of the land, a practice which they included in their religious customs,” our guide said.
Toward the back of the cemetery was an imposing structure which, the guide explained, was the “mausoleum erected some ten years ago in memory of the citizens of Azerbaijan who gave their lives fighting for the independence of our country during the Azerbaijan Democratic Republic of 1918 which lasted just 22 months.” Heydar Aliyev’s grave, which is the reason foreign dignitaries on an official visit come here, was nearby, in the Fakhri Khiabani Cemetery.
Then there were patches of grass which, the guide said, meant that “fragments” of other bodies were buried here.
Next to this grave were several black tombstones. The guide said on these tombstones “it says na-ma’loom which means unknown, because their bodies were damaged so terribly."
The Old City was under our feet in the shape of an amphitheater around Baku Bay. Oil and gas wells with burning fires were visible in the distance, as were mud volcanoes and islands of the Baku archipelago.
The first place that our city tour guide in Baku took us was The Martyrs’ (Shahidlar) Alley. Atop one of the highest hills, it is a good vintage point for a panoramic view of Baku.
The Scalini restaurant was where the powerful in Baku dined. In its two narrow cozy rooms every guest could see everyone else and they all seemed to know each other. The owner stopped at our table to greet my host personally. “Heydar Aliyev deserves all credits,” my host said. He went on to give me the following outline of the recent history of Azerbaijan that sounded similar to what I had heard at the lecture by the American professor -not surprising since my host had studied in the U.S.
The old sign for Nakhjavan Hotel is still on the wall at an entrance to the Hyatt Regency. The Hyatt eventually became a “complex,” as Paolo added homes for oil executives “like San Diego houses” and an elaborate health club.
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