Princess
<<Les fruits dépassent les promesses des fleurs.>> . . . . . <<The fruits surpass the promises of the flowers.>>
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Kabul Diaries: first impressions
31-Oct-2009
I arrived in Kabul at 7:10 am on Tuesday morning completely exhausted after a 38-hour journey, which involved three flights, 17 hours of layover in two airports, and a mere 5 hours of sleep in 48 hours. It was a Marco Polo-esque endeavor.
The last few days before my trip I was becoming increasingly nervous and excited. Nervous, because the security situation in Afghanistan was getting worse leading to a not so rosy prognosis for the future. Excited, because I was finally going to Kabul to explore the possibility of working with an extraordinary NGO to help restore the historic city of Kabul and help strengthen the sense of national pride and identity of the some of the most disadvantaged Afghans by investing in their traditional crafts and reconnecting to their rich cultural history.
Kabul had been calling me for a couple of years already, but my previous attempts to visit this city had been unsuccessful due to time restrains, irregular and bad connections to Kabul and security problems.
Recent news coming out of Kabul had not been encouraging. The attacks on the international forces had increased and expanded into Kabul. There had been a deadly attack on the Indian Embassy in Kabul. The Taliban insurgents warned to increase their operations as the run-off elections approached. I had been in contact with the organisation, which was going to provide my board and lodgings in Kabul. They had sent me a pre-arrival package with detailed travel, health and security advice. I was to be picked up directly from the airport by their liaison officer and driven to the Head Quarters.
The approach to the airport runway was spectacular. I could see the beautiful mountains of the Hindu Kush from my seat. Hindu Kush literally means Hindu Killer. Apparently thousands of Indian soldiers froze to death in these mountain ranges during military sorties on Kabul. As we approached the runway and taxied to the gate, I noticed different sorts of military helicopters and personnel in the airfield. If there ever was any doubt that I was entering a country still at war, it disappeared there and then.
It was a crisp chilly morning. The passport control was in a relatively small room furnished with about 6 cabins. By the time I entered the hall two rows of bearded men in shalwar kameez wearing either turbans or Pakols were waiting to get through at the only two open desks. I had never seen such an image other than on TV. The picture looked intimidating and slightly familiar from the Taliban images I had occasionally seen on the news.
I was relieved when, upon our arrival, they opened two more desks. Quickly I got in line behind a number of other Europeans who had been on my flight. As my turn came I hesitated to approach the immigration officer. I had a valid business visa, but when I went to pick up my passport from the embassy the day before my departure, I had noticed that they had misspelled my last name. Luckily, I spotted the mistake in time to ask them to correct their mistake, but I was a bit suspicious when the clerk whited out my name on the visa and hand corrected the mistake before she stamped it. I wasn’t sure if that would get me through the border.
I approached the counter and presented my passport trying to smile. The young man, who couldn’t have been morethan 25, picked up my passport, opened it, then smiled broadly and said,‘Tehran beh donya oomadin’? Irani? I relaxed and replied, 'Yes, Irani.' He then asked, ‘Chera beh Tehran naraftin?’ Returning his smile I said, ‘Beh Tehran ham raftam.’ He than stamped my passport, put it on the counter and uttered the words, “Beh Afghanistan khoshamadid.” Grateful, I thanked him as I picked up my passport and made my way to the baggage claim area. On my way, I couldn’t help but think to myself how many Afghans get that kind of welcome from Iranians.
The baggage claim area was another small room of about 20m by 35 m with two conveyor belts. My suitcase appeared after about five minutes. I picked it up and made my way to the double glass doors, and started walking towards the VIP parking lot, where I had been told a car would be waiting for me.
My suitcase was heavy, but I did not want any help with it, so I politely thanked all who approached to help while I tried to quickly make my way to the parking lot. After going through the first parking lot and not spotting anybody holding an A4 sheet with my name on it, I started walking to a second and a third parking lot. From the types of cars parked in each lot, it was clear that the further away I got from the terminal, the closer I got to the ordinary Afghan life. I couldn’t help but notice, that there were only men around the gates of each lot, either offering to drive me to my destination or exchange my dollars into Afghanis.
Feeling slightly uncomfortable, I started to increase my pace until I got to the end of the third parking lot. I had come to the end and did not know where to go next. As I stopped to think I turned around and noticed a man in his 30s who had followed me. He walked up to me and asked if I needed a cab. I thanked him and said that I was supposed to be picked up by someone. I then asked him if I could use his mobile phone to call my contact at the NGO to double check in which parking lot they would be waiting for me.
The man dialed the number for me and handed me his mobile. I must have sounded stressed because my contact at the other end told me not to be nervous. She said, ‘Homayun is already at the airport. Stay where you are, I will call and tell him where you are. He will make his way to you shortly.’ Slightly ashamed, I replied that I was very calm and would stay put until he arrived.
Ten minutes later a van pulled up in front of me. The driver stepped out, opened the door and put my suitcase in the car for me. He seemed delighted to find that I spoke Farsi. As soon as we started moving he began to tell me that he had spent years in Tehran. He seemed enthralled by the beauty of Iran and the connection between his and our culture. The warm welcome and the small talk put me immediately at ease.
The drive through Kabul to our destination took about 30minutes. The sharp lines of the Hindu Kush landscape that I had seen from above had turned into a hazy cityscape filtered through a perpetual cloud of dust. Men in turbans pulling carts next to motorcars on the roads, small ramshackle shops with corrugated iron roofs lining the sides of the roads, fruit vendors setting up their trays of blackened bananas and golden brown grapes off the side of dirt roads. All this against a backdrop of the smell of sewage, intermingled with the scent of dry dust. I could hardly breath.
The last turn from the main road into an uneven dirt road brought us to the front gate of the fortress where I would be staying during my stay in Kabul. I was delighted to have finally arrived.
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A-A jan
by Princess on Fri Nov 13, 2009 02:04 AM PSTThank you very much for your kind note. I like Pricess, much better than Princess... :) Do you mind if I adopt it?
I am safe back in London, but just now some worrisome news is coming out of Kabul. There is been another explosion in Kabul. Things are definitely not looking good.
Dear Pricess...
by Aref-Adib on Fri Nov 13, 2009 01:04 AM PSTI've just found your blog. This is a very well written post. I have a lot to catch up on now...
Another beautiful picture!
by Anonymouse on Mon Nov 09, 2009 10:16 AM PSTEverything is sacred.
Cost of Progress
by Princess on Tue Nov 03, 2009 08:45 AM PSTI agree with you. I found 'A Thousand Splendid Suns' extremely depressing. Apparently he chose to focus on the Afghan women's plight in this book, because he was heavily criticised for 'ignoring' the women in 'The Kit Runner.'
Thanks for reading.
...
by Red Wine on Mon Nov 02, 2009 09:00 AM PSTI should go there for producing a reportage about mistic music... Pakistan,Afganistan,India and Nepal... But i don't know when will be !
I am happy to see you healthy ... Unjaha movazeb bashi.. don't trust to nobody, specially those which talk in farsi and not in pashtu !!!!!!
Hugs ...
Not to butt in, but the second book
by Cost-of-Progress on Mon Nov 02, 2009 06:41 AM PSTcalled "A Thousand Splendid Suns" is better than Kite Runner. The Kite Runner book, however, was far better than the movie as is usually the case.
Anytime there's realistic representation of what reilgion and its brutalities do, people get offended. This is ture be it in literature or cinema. Very Ironic.
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PUT IRAN FIRST
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I thought the movie put Taliban in a bad light, not Afghans in
by Anonymouse on Mon Nov 02, 2009 06:32 AM PSTI thought the movie put Taliban in a bad light, not Afghans in general.
I thought since Taliban were so much feared, that a movie that depicted their cruelty would be welcomed. But I guess I can think why the movie might not have been well received. I now think different about the movie, after reading your comment! I still like the movie but can understand why Afghans might not like it.
Everything is sacred.
Very Intriguing
by Cost-of-Progress on Mon Nov 02, 2009 06:22 AM PSTWow, an Iranian member of an NGO in Afghanistan.
Stay safe and do tell us more.
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PUT IRAN FIRST
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Yes, I realised why you brought it up.
by Princess on Mon Nov 02, 2009 06:09 AM PSTAs I am sure you know the reason the Hazaras might be treated badly by the Afghans is slightly different than by the Iranians.
As for your question, I know that neither the book nor the movie has been received well by the Afghans themselves. I imagine for the same reasons that an Iranian book critical of some Iranian behaviour would not be received very positively by the Iranians.
You brought up Hazaras & in this movie they give more
by Anonymouse on Mon Nov 02, 2009 05:50 AM PSTYou brought up Hazaras & in this movie they give more understanding of the various tribal relationships and Hazaras and Pashtouns in general.
Yes it was over dramatic but given the situation in Afghanistan, I can understand why it had to be told this way. I wrote a blog about it after I saw it.
//iranian.com/main/blog/anonymouse/i-saw-kite-runner-wow
Do you know if Afghans have seen or heard about it? If not, if you could, please ask and let us know. Of course there needs to be a TV to see the movie or education to read the book which may be hard to come by. But I'd be interested to know what Afghans in the country think about it. I know Afghans outside liked it.
Everything is sacred.
Anonymouse
by Princess on Mon Nov 02, 2009 05:43 AM PSTYes, I have also read the book. A bit over dramatic for my taste, but I can see its appeal.
Princess have you seen the movie "Kite Runner"?
by Anonymouse on Mon Nov 02, 2009 05:41 AM PSTEverything is sacred.
Dear Niloufar
by Princess on Mon Nov 02, 2009 05:41 AM PSTThank you for reading my post. It is interesting you should bring up the issue of donor relationships. I have not been here long enough and do not know many people from other charities who receive funding from Iran, but this organisation is partly funded by the US and they have very strict donor compliance guidelines. Just yesterday an e-mail was circulated to the effect that if anybody is caught buying Iranian products or buying services from Iran, real jail term awaits them. It is quite interesting because the Afghans themselves have a very good relationship with Iran.
Dear Yolanda
by Princess on Mon Nov 02, 2009 05:38 AM PSTThis time around my time in Afghanistan is rather limited, so I have no plans to visit Mazare Sharif, but I hope to come back again soon and hopefully travel a bit more. As for Afghans, my experience with them so far has only been positive. Many of the Afghans I have come across have spent many years in Iran. I am very aware of the racism some of these people (especially the Hazara) must have experienced during their stay there, but so far not a single Afghan has brought that topic up with me. They only have positive things to say about Iran and Iranians. In my opinion it says a lot about the strength of their characters. They have been extremely polite, kind and gentle towards me.
Wow... dear friends!
by Princess on Mon Nov 02, 2009 05:34 AM PSTSorry about the delay in my response to all your comments.Internet connection is a bit unreliable in Kabul and I am out all day trying tomake the most out of my time here.
I am stunned by the kind words and warm response to my humble post. I only thought to share some of my experiences in Kabul, because I know I would’ve appreciated it if somebody else who had been to Kabul had done the same. I am extremely flattered to see the list of names of all who have left a comment on this thread. Thank you!
Dear Irandokht, thank you for reading my blog and leaving your kind comment.
Bajenagh jan, I am very well rested, but still slightly jet-lagged. Thank you for the good wishes.
Thank you Bambi. I shall try to post something very soon.
Abarmand, Thanks for reading.
Red Wine jan, Is that a promise? Magar inke shoma-ro dar Kabul bebinim! :)
JJ Aziz, What an honour! Thank you for providing the forumfor these types of experiences to be shared.
HollyUSA ,Thanks for your encouraging words!
Dear Darius, Your comment truly made me blush! I am becoming rather self-conscious now. :) Thank your for reading and leaving such kind words.
Wow Muliple jan, So nice to see you here. Thank you for your good wishes!
Mona jan, Thank you for your sweet comment and kind wishes!I will post a new episode shortly.
Princess jan: You are Amazing!
by Monda on Sun Nov 01, 2009 09:30 PM PSTI am so activated by your Live reporting right now. I will be looking for your photos and other observations. Be well and keep safe.
......
by yolanda on Sun Nov 01, 2009 02:22 PM PSTThank God that IC is not blocked in Afghanistan (IC is blocked in Iran and Saudi Arabia), so Princess is able to give us the timely update on what is going on there...Wow! IC has its own Christiane Amanpour!
Good luck!
Good job writing,
by Multiple Personality Disorder on Sun Nov 01, 2009 12:28 PM PSTWOW Princess Jaan !
by Darius Kadivar on Sun Nov 01, 2009 11:37 AM PSTNow I'm Blown Away by your amazing blog here.
Keep Safe and Truly What A Surprise for all of us to have such a brave and good hearted contributor like you on this website.
You have truly amazed us all by this revelation.
hope to hear from you soon.
Warm Regards and Do Keep Safe,
D
Princess
by HollyUSA on Sun Nov 01, 2009 11:12 AM PSTWow. I envy you! Thanks for truly sharing the experience with your excellent writing skills. 'Can't wait for the rest.
Good all around
by Jahanshah Javid on Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:57 AM PSTA humanitarian who can write. Really well-written and engaging, with lots of flavor.
Afghanistan is one country among many in dire need of humanitarian assistance of all kind. You are making a difference.
Looking forward to more.
Photos will be coming soon.
by Princess on Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:26 AM PSTMaziar,
Thank you for your kind words. I have taken lots of photos. They will need some editing, before I can post them, but I promise you they will be coming. :)
Dear Nazy
by Princess on Sun Nov 01, 2009 10:23 AM PSTThank you for your sweet comment and good vibes!
I am not braver than all these men and women who are out here working hard everyday, keeping up hope and optimism against all odds. :) Thank you, dooste aziz!
...
by Red Wine on Sun Nov 01, 2009 09:08 AM PSTNext time we can meet there Princess jan :=) ... Take care aziz .
Princess
by Niloufar Parsi on Sun Nov 01, 2009 07:20 AM PSTgreat blog. keep safe...
i would be curious to learn what they think of the kind of development support - especially in infrastructure development - they have been receiving from iran, as compared to the interventions of other donors/powers.
Anonymouse,
Iran treats Afghans relatively badly, but far better than her other neighbours. this is partly why afghans are very positive toward iranians, though they are not keen on our politicians. but for the most part, they love iranians because of our shared culture and heritage. that was my experience in kabul last year.
in my experience, most south asians - from bangladesh to india, pakistan and afghanistan - regard iranians very positively.
.....
by yolanda on Sun Nov 01, 2009 07:24 AM PSTHi! Mouse,
I was about to have a heart-attack....I asked the Afghani necklace seller why he does not like Iranians, he said that he feels Iranians are too proud.......the word "refugees" never came up in the conversation, the guy attended high school in San Diego....I bought a lapis necklace from him.....I am glad that you are not going ballistic on me...Thank God! I am very fragile! O:)
thanks,
P.S. I read somewhere that Afghanis like poetries also, I was thinking that Iranians and Afghanis may read the same poetries.........Princess can be the Goodwill Ambassador for the 2 cultures and people! O:)
NOTHING offensive, it's all good fun among friends! Cheers! ;-)
by Anonymouse on Sun Nov 01, 2009 06:49 AM PSTEverything is sacred.
....
by yolanda on Sun Nov 01, 2009 06:46 AM PSTHi! Mouse,
I really wanted to delete the offensive part of my comment, but you clicked on the "Reply" button already. Sorry!
Persian Empire was neither Persian nor an Empire. Discuss! SNL
by Anonymouse on Sun Nov 01, 2009 06:38 AM PSTYolanda remember Mike Meyers skit on SNL as his mother-in-law?!
Anyway, Iranians think Afghanistan was part of Iran and Afghans think Iran was part of Afghanistan! And it doesn't matter what are the facts or what's true in history. If someone wants to think one way over another s/he can and quote historical facts and figures and books and such.
It is no surprise to find Afghans and Arabs hating Iranians. You've been here on this Iranian website for a while. How many derogatory remarks, blogs and articles have you seen against Arabs? Do you think Arabs reading this website enjoy what we write about them?!
Iranian Govt treats Afghan refugees really bad. It's a shame. Mass deportations and ruthless behavior. What US is shy to do with its "illegal" immigrants, Iran does with its Afghan refugees with impunity.
Everything is sacred.
......
by yolanda on Sun Nov 01, 2009 06:22 AM PSTThank you for your diaries. You are working for a great cause! It is very gratifying and meaningful to help people, touch a life and make a difference!! I look forward to your next article or photos from Afghanistan.....I am glad that the Afghani driver likes Iran. I ran into a Afghani necklace seller in Costo Mesa several months ago, the guy has nothing good to say about Iranians and Iran, which shocked me very much. I know that the 2 countries have similar languages and cultures... Afghanistan was part of Persian Empire...
Are you going to visit the magnificent Blue Mosque?
//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shrine_of_Hazrat_Ali
//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mazar-e_sharif_-_Steve_Evans.jpg
Have a safe trip!