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During our conversation they told us that a few months earlier a group of people from UN Habitat had come to Passe Ghar saying they wanted to sanitize their drinking water. They had built a concrete structure around the well which provided their drinking water. Since then they had "lost the water" as they put it. The UN Habitat people had disappeared without looking back, leaving ten families without drinking water.
These people extremely kind an curios. Where were we from? When they found Reza was from the Panj Sheer area, they unanimously said, Ghahremaane Afghanistan! (The Hero of Aghanistan! - referring to Ahmad Shah Masoud). Next, were we on the mountains to collect herbal medicine? If so, we were too slow, we should come back in three or four months. Is it true that when it is day time here, it is night in America? What is on the other side of America? Reza said, nothing. Oh, so America is the end of the world? Could we travel to England and America without papers? Reza, responded again, no.
After about 5 hours we finally relieved to detect a pathway that could lead us down. We decided to follow it until we reached a main road. We would then deal with how to find our car. As we were going further down the valley we saw a couple of mud houses. A man with a number of children were standing outside one of them and looking at us. I told Reza to ask them if we could get a cup of tea. Reza shouted up, A cup of tea? The man gestured for us to go up.
Story has it that the king of Zahak had a beautiful daughter and the king of a nearby rival town of Gholghola had a handsome son. The two youngsters were in love, but since they knew that their parents would never agree to their marriage, they decide to elope. When the parents find out about the elopement, they send their guards to find the lovers and kill them both. Then the two rival towns went to war with each other ruining and burning down both towns.
We were rather surprised to see rooms of the Roman archetype. This space reminded me of the Pantheon, although the whole in the centre of the dome is most likely accidental rather than deliberate.
Part of the ruin had be refurbished in the 60s, but the Talibs had mined the whole mountain to prevent people from visiting it.
The old fortress with its intricate detailing and the remaining dwellings are very well integrated into the mountainous landscape.
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