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Even the few huts which made up the little community of the local Mexicans at the
time of the film had now been replaced by new two and three story buildings, albeit
poorly constructed and jammed together. There were also many more thatched cafes.
The contrast in the views of nearby of Mismaloya beach and cove, now and then,
was much more dramatic. Where there was nothing at the time the movie was made,
now were the huge Barcelo resort and the condos and houses which filled up the
landscape of the surrounding hills.
From this point, the view of that water looking toward Puerto Vallarta was
as mesmerizing as I saw in the movie, the only difference was that now you
could see the outlines of the new high-rises of Puerto Vallarta through the
landmark Rocks (Los Arcos) where tourists go to see the fish.
On the other side of the path a pole had been erected that displayed the sculpture
of an iguana tied with a rope at its very tip.
At the end of the path where steps led up the hill was yet another sign on the
fence, this one in Spanish, saying “No Trespass, Private Property.
I took the path on the edge of the water toward that hill. I found that
the property was now fenced up with a sign featuring the menacing face
of a dog and a warning in English: “Danger Do Not Enter.”
The destination was marked by paint on the window of the bus, as was a request
in Spanish to “please put the trash in the waste basket.”
My bus was a local commuting one where I saw the back of Mexican women
passengers, with their hair immaculately combed, and their babies well-clothed.
The plaque quotes a notable testimony from Stark to John Huston’s contribution
to the “discovery” of Puerto Vallarta in our age: "There was a feeling here -
soulful, innocent, romantic - that time and the outside world doesn't seem to
diminish. John Huston sensed it instinctively.”
Bogart was, of course, an actor Huston cast in many of his famed movies,
the only vaguely relevant to this location being The Treasures of
Sierra Madre. The inscription was provided by Le Bistro,
a Hollywood-style restaurant around the corner from the Plaza.
Across the street one could see refurbished apartments on the upper floors
with for sale and for rent signs.
The prices at the modest Yasmin Hotel on Basilio Badillo ($50 a night) spoke
to the modest budget of the guests frequenting the Old Town. The sign at the
P&P Boutique displaying the rainbow flag.
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