We waited a long time to get into the Ice Bar which was in the lobby of a hotel. Only a group of about 20 were allowed in at a time for a period of half an hour. We were given “Sami ski suits” to wear, which were heavy parkas with fur lining and hoods and gloves.
In between was the Hacklefjall district, with neat 19th century houses and lampposts and a beautiful yellow 17th century Katarina church with its baroque dome.
Inside, the walls of Mosebacke Etablissement were covered with pictures of contemporary actors who had performed in many plays here.
On the way inside to escape the downpour I saw the cook grinning at the changed vista. I nodded to him. “Stockholm’s summer,” he shook his head.
Walking through the restaurant on the corner, I went to the Mosebacke terrace where I saw ships that were sailing toward Helsinki and an old yacht which was now used as a hostel anchored on the shore below facing me.
The clouds from the south now grew dark. It started to drizzle. Some of us braved the light rain as the umbrellas protected us. The increasingly darkened terrace was now a romantic tableau, more like Paris in the fall.
When clouds suddenly appeared, the scenery changed dramatically; the clouds became my focus. They were various hues of grey.
This was the closest I came to seeing Stockholm’s Northern light that has delighted generations of painters.
Mosebacke is located on Sodermalm which is Stockholm’s largest island, but which retains the ambiance of a small town. The ferry that I took to Sodermalm plowed through blue waters which sparkled under the sun, presenting the best view yet of the city’s waterfront buildings.
The Vasa was discovered and retrieved 333 years later and showcased again in the museum. This has redeemed its original purpose in a sense, since the Vasa is now one of the most popular tourist attractions in Stockholm.
The music sounded familiarly melancholic. I walked over and saw a vocalist and a guitar player enjoy the rapt attention of those who could see them.
I walked over and saw a vocalist and a guitar player enjoy the rapt attention of those who could see them.
I took the ferry to the old royal hunting grounds (Djurgarden) which houses both the Vasa Museum and the Grona Lund Funfair, a venue for open-air concerts.
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