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By now the Church’s stature had been immeasurably enhanced in Communist Poland. Karol Wojtyla, who had been selected by the Communists as the Bishop of Krakow from the three candidates nominated by Wyszynski, had become Pope Paul II in 1978 and made a historic papal visit to Poland in 1979. At the site just outside the Old Town, where the Pope held his historic mass, attended by “millions of cheering Poles,” as my guide said, I noted just a simple but eloquent marker: a cross.
The Old Town is so picturesque that it is the choice for memorable photo shoots; around the corner I saw yet another couple recording their nuptials by a photographer.
A large portrait of Archbishop Stefan Wyszynski adorned the front of still another church. He was the most renowned personification of the conflict and cooperation between the church and the Polish state in recent times.
The pageantry of other occasions, of course, continues in the Old Town churches. I observed a wedding party coming out of one such church; the married couple then held court in the front yard to receive the best wishes of the well-attired guests standing in a line.
Churches abound in the Old Town. Within my glance was the 15th century St. Anne’s church in the neoclassical style.
The Royal Castle was once connected to the most important church here, St. John’s Cathedral, by an eighty meter long elevated corridor. This church, originally built in the 14th century by the Masovian Dukes, is still the main Cathedral of the Warsaw archdiocese.
I stood waiting for my turn. A middle-aged woman motioned me to share her table. She was dressed in red -her Sunday best in this very Catholic of cities.
... which was the meeting place of the youth, a man in a chapeau and wearing a bow tie played the tuba.
In the Castle Square of Warsaw’s Old Town the light that the sun cast against the brilliant blue sky was crystalline on this crisp late October day in 2010. People, old and young, had poured into the square...
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