Life is still simple
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Luang Prabang’s authorities have posted notices with instructions to the tourists: ”take part in almsgiving ceremony by protecting its dignity and its beauty, … contribute an offering only if it is meaningful for you, ... observe the ritual in silence, … (cover) shoulders, chest and legs, ... do not make any physical contact with the monks."
The maw phon began a long Buddhist mantra to call in the wandering khwan. Just behind them sat several women who formed a chorus with their chants and clapping. Further back there were seven musicians with traditional Lao instruments. They were all male and seemed to be in their teens.
The hero Rama is portrayed as an incarnation of Buddha, not Vishnu, although the demon king is still Ravana.
We made a circle in our chairs around two "village elders (maw phon)" who sat on a carpet facing a center piece (pha khwan) on a white cloth. This was a canonical-shaped arrangement of banana leaves, flowers and fruit. It had about eight sticks all with white string hand bands.
Subsequently, several dancers came and performed the local version of the Sanskrit Ramayana saga (Pra Lak Pra Lam).
A special person sat near the school room with a big smile, some papers, and white strings tied around his wrist.
The “mercantalized” kids were summoned from the street to sit behind empty desks in the bare class room, making funny faces while we took pictures.
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