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Before the Persian wheel there was the step-well (baori). We went to see one of India’s deepest and largest in the village of Abhaneri, Rajasthan, which was built in the 9th century by Raja Chand (or Chandra), a Rajput of Chahmana dynasty.

Photo essay: Folklore in India’s villages

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A woman was smoking a clay pipe.

Photo essay: Folklore in India’s villages

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Abhaneri (Abha Nagari) means the City of Light. At eight in the morning when we reached it the sun was rising red. Several villagers were sitting at a local café having breakfast.

Photo essay: Folklore in India’s villages

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She set the dung away, put some water on her hand and pulled back her hair that had covered a sweaty forehead.

Photo essay: Folklore in India’s villages

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That evening at our hotel I saw evidence of this fact. Two women were carrying heavy loads of cement blocks on their heads for repair work in the yard.

Photo essay: Folklore in India’s villages

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The big Persian wheels used for the forts were driven by elephants. The wheel we saw was driven by oxen, but a woman worked this system.

Photo essay: Folklore in India’s villages

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A shack that served as her home was next to the wheel.

Photo essay: Folklore in India’s villages

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A few miles from the goshala we ran into several women who were returning from working on the roads.

Photo essay: Folklore in India’s villages

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A turning wheel brought the water up in buckets from a thirty-feet-deep well into a container “reservoir” from which it was then diverted into narrow canals.

Photo essay: Folklore in India’s villages

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Photo essay: Folklore in India’s villages

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I asked the manager of the goshala about the Sant. He took me to his office which was a one-room structure and showed me several publications about his guru.

Photo essay: Folklore in India’s villages

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The women who worked in the goshala may have believed in the medicinal value of the cow urine, but they also wore silver rings at their ankle which, tradition said, would protect them against diseases.

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The swastika was the sign for wishing good luck. The Om (Aum) represented the trinity of God (“a” for the creator Brahmin, “u” for the preserver Vishnu, and “m” for the destroyer Shiva), we were told. A man and a woman were walking around a tree planted in front of this building.

Photo essay: Folklore in India’s villages

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A better rate for jobs that were also less strenuous than otherwise available to the women.

Photo essay: Folklore in India’s villages

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While the milk from these cows was sold, there were more noteworthy products. Cow urine was boiled and distilled and a nectar was made and bottled here.

Photo essay: Folklore in India’s villages

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