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The plaque next to the old church did not quite support the guide’s claim about the Turkish threat. It said that the 14th century fortification here, as well as in the other 300 such churches, were for “protection against invasion of migratory people."

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Our guide pointed out a structure next to the church, “that was the reconciliation prison,” he said. “Quarreling couples were sent there; it had only one bed, one spoon, and one chair. They were kept there for a time and had to live as one. The result was that there was only one divorce in this village for a long time.”

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... that is housed in the building with a sign marking the famous birth in 1431.

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“This is the only place in the world you see fortified churches,” our guide said. He took us to see a good example in the village of Axente Sever.

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One such village was Biertan where the hilltop church, typically the most durable and strategically positioned building in the area, was surrounded with fortification walls below. The church is monumental as it was the seat of the Lutheran Bishop of Transylvania for over 300 years, and memorable as it houses an even older Gothic triptych of 28 pre-Reformation plates from 1483.

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Not far down the road was Sighisoara. Colonized by the Saxons, it is the best preserved medieval fortified town in Transylvania. Now it is equally famous to many tourists as the birthplace of Dracula, a.k.a. Vlad the Impaler, the ruler of Wallachia. The crowd was there when we arrived at lunch time, many in the restaurant...

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Renovation of the small old town square was continuing with help from German investors and Britain’s Prince Charles. Dust covered the outdoor dining tables. We came in through the Tailors’ Tower...

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The one-room souvenir store was still open with its touristy T-shirts at $15 each.

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A group consisting of a man and four women congregated around one in a wheelchair.

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The fruit stand was closing.

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There was even a tourist office, although the peeling paint on the exterior walls made it unappealing.

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My guidebook said that anti-Rroma chants are common at Romanian soccer games. When I was in Bucharest, preparations were underway for a big concert by Madonna. Posters publicizing it were everywhere.

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... that ran from the green mountains in the background.

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Teenagers were playing soccer on that street, all the while smoking.

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Now the Germans are coming back to this area, this time often as hikers. The lodging signs in the nearby village of Sibiel advertised “zimmers.” I walked thorough this rustic...

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