ScottB-03

Yes, a freeway in Esfahan, but note the Iranian flag pennant in the median. These are everywhere and are a subtle yet surprisingly powerful reminder of the state...especially given that the design on the flag is so political. Still the total of seeing small things like this constantly amounted to more than the nationalist brow-beating one gets in Turkey or Israel.

Taking a trip through Iran in May, 2009.

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ScottB-02

This was the first indication of the campaign, a sign announcing a speech and meet-and-greet with Musavi in Yazd. As advertisement for Musavi got more numerous in the coming weeks and still none appeared for Ahmadinezhad, there were two explanations. One is that the system is dumping Ahmadinezhad because he's a screw-up and the other is that he doesn't need to put up advertisements because he knows he's going to win and the powers that be are just trying to make things look competitive. Both possibilities have a degree of truth.

Taking a trip through Iran in May, 2009.

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ScottB-15

Iranian food is even better in Iran than California. This is Fessenjaan.

Taking a trip through Iran in May, 2009.

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ScottB-11

Musavi poster in Tajrish square emphasising patriotism. The middle says "Only for Iran" and the boxes say "together for change".

Taking a trip through Iran in May, 2009.

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ScottB-19

Zereshk Polo Morgh at a truck stop.

Taking a trip through Iran in May, 2009.

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ScottB-08

Khamenei reminding us of his new year's message "Reforming consumption patterns". His new year's speech was focused mostly on this avuncular topic but also contained an appropriate responsed to Obama's overture the day before. Despite being reported as a rejection in the US media, Khamenei was welcoming, but, as the US didn't come across as serious or well-informed, he moved on to more important matters and didn't dwell.

Taking a trip through Iran in May, 2009.

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ScottB-01

The Shah's bedroom in Sa'dabad Palace, note the tasteful decor. I was intrigued by modern representations of the Pahlavi regime. On the one hand the government needs to dredge up the demons of the past to remind people of what the revolution was about, but on the other hand the Pahlavis are often treated like another pre-modern dynasty, like the Qajars or Safavids. Pahlavi monuments palaces are preserved in almost exactly the same way the Qajar ones. Pahlavi-era statues are in some case preserved by having been moved to more out-of-the way areas of Tehran.

Taking a trip through Iran in May, 2009.

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ScottB-06

Poster in Shiraz that says "We are alive with Vilayat [-e faqih]". Vilayate faqih is the concept that underlines clerical rule and ironically not very popular with the clergy, so you get helpful reminders. Coincidentally the following day Ayatollah Behjat was to die (considered by many to be a marja-e taqlid).

Taking a trip through Iran in May, 2009.

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ScottB-05

To look at some of the materials, it might come as a shock that Khatami is actually alive and well. This leaflet reads "Engineer Mirhossein Musavi" at the bottom with engineer being significant because it suggests someone who gets things done. The top reads "green card of confidence" implying that this is a mock ballot meant to be cast for Musavi. The ghostly image of Khatami in the background is more than subtly modelled on pictures of martyrs common around Iran and deeply significant culturally.

Taking a trip through Iran in May, 2009.

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