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Icheri Shehr: a caravanseray turned into to a restaurant.

Photo essay: Journey form Tehran to Baku

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Icheri Shehr: old & new, here you can see Islamic architecture next to 19th century Russian buildings.

Photo essay: Journey form Tehran to Baku

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Photo essay: Journey form Tehran to Baku

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Photo essay: Journey form Tehran to Baku

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I can not say the food was good any where in this city. What happened to great cooking of the region? The Iranian influence? I have no idea, but you cannot find decent food in Baku!

Photo essay: Journey form Tehran to Baku

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But the Qajars were no match for the modern imperial Russian army and lost in two wars with Russia in 1813 and 1828.

Photo essay: Journey form Tehran to Baku

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Heading north and leaving Iran: beloved Caspian shore from above. For much of history and until the 19th century, the region of Caucasus [Qafqaz- today Republics of Azarbaijan, Armenia (Armanestan) and Eastern Georgia (Gorjestan) were part of Iran based empires. The name 'Baku' or 'Baki' is derived from old Persian meaning the seat of god.

Photo essay: Journey form Tehran to Baku

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Historically, the name 'Azarbaijan' was not used for this region and it was adopted only in 1918. The country is small both in size and population (about 8 million, 1.8 million live in Baku). The dominant language is Azari-Turkish, although about a million people speak Talesh (an Indo-European language) and in some high mountain villages, some still consider Persian as their mother language.

Photo essay: Journey form Tehran to Baku

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The oldest part of the city is Icheri Shehr (lower city) surrounded by a wall. This was the town fortress. Within it were the the citadel (Arg), mosques, bazaars, and caravanseraies. Arg was the residence of the local ruler and an administrative center.

Photo essay: Journey form Tehran to Baku

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Baku from above. When the region was reincorporated into Iran under the Safavi Empire (1501-1722), It came to be called 'Baadkubeh' literary 'where wind hits', thus the name 'city of wind'.

Photo essay: Journey form Tehran to Baku

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There are four sets of architecture in the city: Islamic/Iranian, Imperial Russian, Soviet, and post-Soviet. There are some structures from pre-Islamic, Iranian/Zoroastrian past, but not in Baku itself.

Photo essay: Journey form Tehran to Baku

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Iranians under the Qajar dynasty (1795-1925) fought hard behind these walls to keep this region.

Photo essay: Journey form Tehran to Baku

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Leaving Tehran.

Photo essay: Journey form Tehran to Baku

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Imam Khomeini International Airport (IKIA!)

Photo essay: Journey form Tehran to Baku

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Crossing the Alborz mountain range aboard Iran Air flight.

Photo essay: Journey form Tehran to Baku

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