Cremation and Resurrection
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A vendor was sitting by the side of the alley selling eggplantswhich were piled
on the ground next to her. She had wrapped herself in a shawl against the cold.
There were even narrower side alleys. Through the window of a house we saw
two musicians sitting cross-legged practicing with their instruments.
The winding narrow alley was typical of the old town with its overhanging jumble
of electrical wires, small shops, restaurants and guest houses, and a cow walking
in the middle of the path.
Several kinds of wood are used for cremation. Sandalwood is the most
expensive and, therefore, is used sparingly only to add the desired scent.
We came to a monastery. A young monk with an orange colored skirt was standing at
the door. “Orange is the color of renunciation,” our guide said.
When our guide asked, one of the men told us he was 85 years old
and came to the Ganges for a swim every day.
Just past that ghat we saw the big scale that is used to weigh the wood bought
for burning the dead.
We began walking up the narrow alleys of the old town that connect the Ganges
to the rest of Varanasi. The alley that leads to the Manikarnika cremation ghat
is called the “doorway to heaven.”
The Dashashwamedh Ghat looked different from the night before.
In daytime, it was a hub of commerce.
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