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...and meet again with Charlie who has been riding his bike all the way from Mashad to Tehran to keep his precious line around the world inviolate while we were jumping from trains to buses chasing the wonders of the country.
That day, we witness the hard time young people can have in Iran when a security guard meddles in a conversation we are having with a group of women, and tears into pieces the paper on which they had just written down their phone number.
Another historical dimension is given by the graffitis left by Western explorers two hundred years ago.
This man introduces himself as the "strongest man in Iran" and insists we see pictures of his "body style" on his mobile phone.
Emotionally lifted by the country's complexity, we leave Yazd and head South where we plan to visit the remains of Persepolis, which was the ceremonial capital of the Persian Empire. Our trained imagination allows us to understand how magnificent this place was when people coming from as far as Ethiopia in the West and Pakistan in the East used to pay their tribute to Darius the Great.
We can see how shocked they are to see that protestors got killed by ruthless Bassijis (Volunteers protecting the Islamic Revolution) on the day of Ashura during which killing is considered as a terrible sacrilege. We can also feel the excitment in their eyes as they tell us that this mistake is probably the beginning of something big, a national unity between reformers and religious people against the government being the only way the regime can capitulate.
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