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We strongly want to hide ourselves when the character who bought the head of Imam Hussein after his death shows up in his Modern European-like outfit.
That night, we become acquantained with the hotel friendly inhabıtants. Perfect English speaking Massoud is a local guide who likes to hang around in the courtyard to travel through other tourists' stories. He never completed his two year military service and so is not allowed to get a passport to travel himself. Louis is a Chinese fellow living in London who is critical about Chinese regime and passionate about Islamic countries, two features that makes him a very unusual Chinese.
As we are gathered in a tiny villa, sheltered away from prying eyes, Neda, Aida, Khoda and Samira take away their hijabs and reveal their tinted hair and smiling faces.
Due to an exceptionnal crossing of the moon and the sun this year, Shiites Muslims are crying the death of Imam Hussein in Kerbala the same day Christians are celebrating the birth of Jesus Christ. Our host Ali decides to organize an Ashura/Christmas intercultural event in his enchanting courtyard.
Carrie and Willie are overlanders from New Zealand, they give us nice photography tips and we manage to convert them to cyclotourism as they are going to ride from Istanbul to South Africa.
We can experience this as we celebrate Christmas by sharing a nice picnic lunch with 4 feminist dissident women studying French literature.
Iranians are picnic world champions, they always have a picnic set ready to be used in the trunk of their cars.
Our last day in Isfahan is Christmas eve and this comes as a perfect conclusion to the wonderful stay we had in the finest city of the Islamic world.
The same day in Tehran, hundred thousands of protesters went in the streets to express their wrath against the present conservative government. Massoud invites us to his house where his friends are gathered to access real information thanks to his satellite setting broadcasting dissident channels emitting from the US or Europe.
We reach the Silk Road hotel and meet its friendly owner Ali who will demonstrate an amazing sense of generosity to us. We are already charmed by Yazd and this hotel makes the city even more beautiful.
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