egkt020

I saw no women in any of those coffee shops. There were, however, want adds on windows of some other stores for young “good looking” women sales clerks...

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

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egkt019

... and played backgammon.

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

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egkt016

This was the season when dates ripened; fresh dates were in abundance.

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

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egkt018

Every block had at least one, sometimes more, coffee shops where men sat and drank tea, smoked shisha (water-pipe)...

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

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egkt015

“Cairo is the safest place in the world,” our tour guide said. “You can walk all over even after midnight; there is no danger.” I took up the challenge. Late at night, I went walking on the 26th of July Street. Outdoor Vendors blocked not only the sidewalks but parts of the street, causing even more congestion in the busy traffic.

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

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egkt017

There were also vendors of bananas, and bread, and various kinds of clothes.

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

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egkt013

Inside, there was a spacious lobby with courtrooms on both sides and a grand staircase that led to the upper floor.

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

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egkt012

A plaque said had been built during the Mubarak administration. It was “Southern Cairo’s First Level Court”.

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

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egkt014

In the crowd, some men were in suits. One was standing at the door of a court room. I asked him if he was a lawyer. He said yes. We had a conversation in English. He said he had “a client now coming from prison”.

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

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egkt011

Posters for the candidates were on display in the area still called Central Cairo (wust al-Balad) where ordinary Egyptians grappled with the more pressing problems of daily life. Not far from the Abdeen Palace where the formal Presidential events are held, I walked up the steps of the colonnaded courthouse.

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

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egkt010

in 1962 President Gamal abdel-Nasser, who was a leader of the Non-aligned bloc during the Cold War, built Gezira’s Cairo Tower, the city’s tallest structure, partly to make a statement by using the U.S. aid money intended for him to purchase American arms.

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egkt009

In the early 20th century the Gezira (island) in the middle of the Nile was developed with parks and gardens and a new choice residential neighborhood, Zamalek.

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

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egkt008

The affluent consider the elegant restaurant here as one of the best in town. We were taken there for lunch on the patio with an unobstructed view of the Citadel that Saladin built. Like him, and the Fatimids, many other conquerors chose to build their own new city in this metropolis.

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egkt004

I took my shoes out and came back. I then proceeded to take pictures of women in their special section that was on one side of the Shrine. No one objected to this.

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

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egkt006

Tourists crowded the souvenir shops and restaurants that lined the other corner. They had been told by their guides that the Hussein Mosque was not open to non-Muslims. I did not see but a few Western tourists in al-Azhar mosque which they could enter. Like many other aspects of Islam, their knowledge of the rich history of this square remained non-existent or, worse, confused.

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