egkt005

The Hussein Square that connects al-Azhar mosque to the Hussein mosque is called the heart of “Islamic Cairo” by tour guides. Bookstores displayed religious texts on their overflowing counters that extended into the streets.

Present is in the Past

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

by Keyvan Tabari
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egkt007

The Fatimids built the Hussein Mosque on the site where their Caliphs are buried. The only mausoleum existing here today, however, is the Shrine (zarih) of Hussein which is attached to the Mosque. It is claimed that Hussein’s head is buried there. This defies history as Hussein was killed in Karbala and more likely rests in the Hussein Mosque in that Iraqi city. Cairo ignores these and the fact that Hussein was the son of Fatemah Zahra. Instead he is honored as the favorite grandson of the Prophet.

Present is in the Past

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

by Keyvan Tabari
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egkt002

In the tomb chamber of the Mosque of al-Azhar I took off my shoes and sat on the bench when I saw two men doing so. I put the shoes down. A mosque’s attendant came toward me quietly, picked up my shoes, made their bottoms face each other and then put them down. This was the respectful way. Elsewhere in the mosque three men were lying on the carpeted floor, half-asleep.

Present is in the Past

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

by Keyvan Tabari
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egkt003

In the Shrine of the Mosque of Hussein across the street, I took off my shoes and put them down the way the al-Azhar attendant had taught me. A man sitting on the floor motioned sternly that shoes should be left outside. A higher degree of respect was required in the mausoleum of Hussein, the Prophet’s grandson.

Present is in the Past

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

by Keyvan Tabari
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egkt001

I hauled my luggage through the smoke-filled lobby, crowded with foreign tourists. My room had two balconies. They overlooked a scenic part of the Nile I opened the door and went out to a balcony to enjoy the view. The smog and noise proved too much of a challenge. I went to bed for some sleep after a very long flight from San Francisco.

Present is in the Past

Photo essay: Before the dying days of Mubarak's regime

by Keyvan Tabari
Balatarin
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